21 Feb 2016
Pattern and Print at Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci, PF16. Historically, Pucci is a brand that is synonymous with print. By looking through the Pre-Fall 2016 collection by creative director Massimo Giorgetti, you can see some of the techniques and options available to designers to use prints successfully across a range of different garments. If you use...

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04 Jan 2016
Thinking Like a Designer

In this final round-up post about the articles from 2015, we’ve gathered together some food for thought if you are about to become a fashion designer, or fashion design student yourself. From sketching designs to communicating with pattern makers these 2015 articles give you an insight into the analytical mindset...

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29 Dec 2015
Finding the Balance for Casual Luxury

Part of what has been interesting about 2015 has been watching as designers continue to use construction details as a way to strike a balance in their collections. An underlying question seems to be constantly asked about how to give a consumer a high-end garment experience without making them look...

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26 Dec 2015
Fabric and Textile Details from 2015

From scraped silicone to embossing machines, chiffon rose petals to sketchy beading, 2015 was filled with different types of embellishments for fabrics and textiles. Often what made these embellishments feel relevant was how loose and organic they were, giving a feeling that was spontaneous rather than densely laboured. At the...

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16 Dec 2015
Pattern Making Details from 2015

In order to put the year into context, it seems like a good time to revisit some of the details that piqued our interest in 2015. Over the next few weeks we’ll revisit some of the year’s most popular articles to give you a chance to catch up on some...

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10 Dec 2015
Flounces and Ruffles

Noir Kei Ninomiya, SS16, Paris. At times, words are used interchangeably to describe certain fabric details. In a fashion journalism context this is generally ok because if someone talks about the “ruffled” or “frilly” dress in the collection then it’s usually pretty clear which one they mean. When a designer...

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30 Nov 2015
Rethinking Seams at Noir Kei Ninomiya

Noir Kei Ninomiya, SS16, Paris. For many designers, the basic construction elements of a garment are quite simple - you take 2D pieces of fabric and join them together, usually by sewing seams, to create a 3D object. In the collections created by Kei Ninomiya however, it seems that even...

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21 Nov 2015
Wearable Architecture at DZHUS

DZHUS, “Totalitarium”, AW15, Kiev.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection for DZHUS was filled with geometric details that used tucks and pleating to fold fabric around the body. Designer Irina Dzhus spoke to us about her pattern making process for the collection and discussed how fabric choice can make the difference between a...

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16 Nov 2015
Fractured Layers at Off‑White

Off-White, SS16, Paris. The Off-White collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was filled with deconstructed finishes and patchworked denim set against crisp white t-shirts and structured pleating.

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Lace Engineering at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, SS16, Paris.
09 Nov 2015
Lace Engineering at Céline

Céline, SS16, Paris. There are certain garments where the feats of construction at work are well-known, such as the layers of canvas and horsehair used to mould fabric for tailored jackets. Other garments seem easier or less engineered simply because they are more floaty and lightweight, but of course, this...

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Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York.
29 Oct 2015
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York. In a palette of red, white and blue the Marc Jacobs collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was thick with Americana references and slathered with glittering stars and stripes. Within this relatively narrow concept and colour palette, the garments showed some incredible uses of embellishment and spliced...

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Pure Construction at Christian Dior | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, SS16, Paris.
25 Oct 2015
Pure Construction at Christian Dior

Christian Dior, SS16, Paris. After the recent news that Raf Simons would no longer be the artistic director at Dior (for women’s RTW, Haute Couture and accessories), it seemed a fitting time to celebrate the fineness of the construction details in his last collection for Spring-Summer 2016. After all, it’s...

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