Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs

Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs

Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York.

Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York.

In a palette of red, white and blue the Marc Jacobs collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was thick with Americana references and slathered with glittering stars and stripes. Within this relatively narrow concept and colour palette, the garments showed some incredible uses of embellishment and spliced appliqué, while slouchy dropped shoulder silhouettes were contrasted with razor sharp tailoring.

In a video describing the collection, Marc Jacobs talks about working with the “greatest embroiderers in the world” and the collection is filled with garments where embroidery has been layered onto a base fabric and then embellished with smatterings of beading and minute sequins to catch the light. To keep this current, the embellishment is also often made less formal by making the placements quite random. It’s almost as though some of the garments have accumulated the embellishments over time – like a bomber jacket that gets pinned with a new button at every new state in the road trip.

The use of deconstructed knitwear also made for a clever twist on logo sweatshirts with “concert band” and “bobcats” appliqués spliced through by disjointed panel lines. The treatment of the neckline was nicely rearranged on one spliced top to create a folded detail; while on another the splice created a rough V-neck.

Another interesting point about the collection was the cut of the shoulders for the tailored jackets. While the denim and bomber jackets were cut with dropped shoulders to fit with their oversized silhouettes, the tailored jackets were often cut with strong, square shoulders with a pronounced rope on the shoulder. This subtle detail helps to create an almost caricatured version of “formal wear”. These tailored garments were also often trimmed with satin, giving them the embellished formality of uniforms that could either be for fancy bellhops or for a bedazzled chorus line.

The overall effect was something like a 4th of July awards show afterparty where the red carpet dresses were given a drunken DIY update with streamers taken straight from the venue, and the jackets of bell boys had been nabbed for the late night run into a yellow cab. The trick is that the attention to detail is absolute – and the execution of the garment construction is completely committed to the theme down to the very last tiny sequin.

Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 1. Spliced knitwear.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 2. Patterns and embellishements are scattered and dishevelled.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 3. Spliced logo appliqués.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 4. Faces in cinema print grow in scale down the body.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 5. Embellishment is less formal with painterly treatment.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 6. Embroidery and sequins over grid base fabric.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 7. Stripe cut to sit along edge of the lapel.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 8. Stripes created with ribbons appliquéd onto sheer base.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 9. Assorted pins.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 10. Dropped shoulder in oversize silhouettes.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 11. High shoulder rope in tailored jackets.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 12. Appears to be metallic leather lasercut with stars.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 13. Skirt silhouette accentuated with tucks.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 14. Cropped jackets cut like bell boy uniforms.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 15. Screaming face print embellished with lace and beading.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 16. Seams hidden along stripes.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 17. Contrast details in satin.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 18.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 19. Fringing like 4th of July streamers.
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York, Image 20. Embellished jacket.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

21 Feb 2016
Pattern and Print at Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci, PF16. Historically, Pucci is a brand that is synonymous with print. By looking through the Pre-Fall 2016 collection by creative director Massimo Giorgetti, you can see some of...
04 Jan 2016
Thinking Like a Designer
In this final round-up post about the articles from 2015, we’ve gathered together some food for thought if you are about to become a fashion designer, or fashion design student...
29 Dec 2015
Finding the Balance for Casual Luxury
Part of what has been interesting about 2015 has been watching as designers continue to use construction details as a way to strike a balance in their collections. An underlying...