Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris.

Céline, AW15, Paris.

Bet you never think of topstitching as nonchalant, right? What about pattern making, can you cut a dart like you just don’t care? This is the bizarre skill that is needed to be a fashion designer; can you convey a certain mood for a collection not just through your choice of fabric or the way you cut a jacket, but through every single choice and detail down to the last contrast buttonhole.

Surely, this is the secret to Céline’s success under Phoebe Philo? Somebody cares so much about how all those little details come together, what they insinuate and how they will hang on the body that the wearer doesn’t have to care. You can see it in the Céline collections because there are always little contradictions in the construction choices. A fabric embellishment can be left to unravel, but the topstitching on the sleeve head is perfectly placed to hold the seam allowance and smooth the silhouette. A cape hangs off your shoulders just right because someone has strategically worked out where to place the button and buttonhole and then sewn it in a contrast colour just so it doesn’t get too serious. You can even use pattern fullness to counteract anything that’s just too blatantly sexy. If you’re going to cut a revealing slip dress then why not crush the bust cups rather than dart them perfectly just so it’s not too fitted?

It sounds ridiculous, of course, that is until you’ve seen a garment go from wrong to right after a fitting session changed the proportions. Or after the cutter changed the fusing. Or the sewing machinist moved the topstitching on the hem. And when you look at a collection and something doesn’t look quite right or a garment just doesn’t look very resolved and you can’t work out why, it might be something really small that’s the key to the problem. Some little detail that just contradicts the concept behind the collection.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 1. Textured monochrome fabric.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 2. Shoulder bag alternative with patch pockets.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 3. Bell shaped cuff gathered in to sleeve.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 4. Bust cups fit into V-shaped panel lines.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 5. Leather panels edged with one line of white topstitching.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 6. Shaping created with gathering into neck and waistline.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 7. Subtle neck shaping with darts.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 8. Patch pockets appear to be made 3D with a side panel piece.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 9. Box of topstitching to smooth seam allowance on sleeve head.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 10. Different colours of topstitching.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 11. Shaping in bust cups is partly dart and partly just crushed fabric.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 12. Contrast colour buttonholes.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 13. Tab and button detail as closure.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 14. Print details on fabric.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 15. Pearl buttons on front closures and cuffs.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 16. Front pin tuck pressed into crease like trousers.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 17. Contrast topstitching.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 18. Contrast topstitching.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 19. Godet creates flare in rib fabric.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 20. Pocket in side seam.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 21. Wide distance for topstitching on hem.

Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris, Image 22. Padded dress / coat has sleeves that unbutton.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

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