Graphic Movement at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, SS16, London.
16 Oct 2015
Graphic Movement at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, SS16, London.As ever, the catwalk show for Spring-Summer 2016 showed the latest results from the Christopher Kane laboratory. In many ways, this collection seemed to combine the colours and fabrications which Kane has used in the past with the sweeping sense of movement from last season’s collection which...

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Coordinated Chaos at Dries Van Noten | The Cutting Class. Dries Van Noten, SS16, Paris.
09 Oct 2015
Coordinated Chaos at Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten, SS16, Paris.A few years ago now we did an article that asked How Many Fabrics in the Dries Van Noten Show? and laid out the collection as swatches. Since the Dries Van Noten show for Spring-Summer 2016 was again filled with an amazing range of different prints,...

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Is it ever ok to have bad finishes? The Cutting Class. Yeezy, SS16, New York.
29 Sep 2015
Is it ever ok to have bad finishes?

Yeezy, SS16, New York.While looking at the Yeezy collection for Spring-Summer 2016 with puckered seams and wavy zippers, a question began to form about how to evaluate the construction techniques of a collection. Can it ever support a designer’s concept to have construction details that are technically wrong?

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Shattered, Pleated Appliqué at Thom Browne | The Cutting Class. Thom Browne, SS16, New York.
25 Sep 2015
Shattered, Pleated Appliqué at Thom Browne

Thom Browne, SS16, New York.The layered suiting ensembles at Thom Browne for Spring-Summer 2016 were embellished with carefully worked appliqué. The motifs were cut in a variety of fabrics and subtle pastel tones and were often spliced into fragments across front closures and shattered across pleated skirts.

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Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York.
18 Sep 2015
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy

Givenchy, SS16, New York.The Givenchy Spring-Summer 2016 collection combined the silky sensuality of lingerie with the strictness of tailoring topped off with lashings of embellishment.

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Crushed and Creased Tailoring at Gucci | The Cutting Class. Gucci, AW15, Milan.
10 Sep 2015
Crushed and Creased Tailoring at Gucci

Gucci, AW15, Milan. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Gucci had a more subtle atmosphere, a more come-as-you-are version of “fashion” with pieces layered together in a way that felt lived-in. In particular it was interesting to see the way that this undone quality was used across the tailored pieces with...

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Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris.
04 Sep 2015
Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo

Kenzo, AW15, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Kenzo included some interesting pattern cutting details to create draped details and subtle folds of fullness. At times, sportswear colours and satin fabrications were contrasted with a more historical technique, with cartridge pleats used on sleeve heads and dropped waists.

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Wearable Innovation at Louis Vuitton | The Cutting Class. Louis Vuitton, AW15, Paris.
28 Aug 2015
Wearable Innovation at Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton, AW15, Paris. Nicholas Ghesquière has a knack for creating collections that look very wearable but that are still filled with quietly innovative construction details and carefully developed fabrics. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Louis Vuitton these elements were combined together in unusual ways to create garments and...

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Bold and Subtle Details at Dior Couture | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, AW15, Haute Couture, Paris.
21 Aug 2015
Bold & Subtle Details at Dior Couture

Christian Dior, AW15, Haute Couture, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Christian Dior was filled with bold, immediate design elements such as contrast sleeves and asymmetric outerwear, but there were also quieter and more subtle details with carefully placed darts, pleats and feathers.

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Fabric Manipulations at Chanel. Chanel, AW15, Paris.
13 Aug 2015
Fabric Manipulations at Chanel

Chanel, AW15, Paris. Mixed among the traditional tweeds and bouclés of the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2015 collection were a number of fabric manipulations that added volume and texture to the garments.

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Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15.
07 Aug 2015
Spotlight Details at Anrealage

Anrealage, AW15, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Anrealage revolved around the way that a spot of light hits objects in darkness, with pitch black garments illuminated by spots of pure white. This basic concept was then borne out through a range of different iterations - white light as a...

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Pattern Shaping at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW15, Paris.
30 Jul 2015
Pattern Shaping at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, AW15, Paris. Some time ago, we discussed some of the different ways you can position fabric on the body to create different sleeve shapes. In particular, there are many different design possibilities that open up to you when you give up on the typical bodice / sleeve arrangement and...

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