The Cutting Class

Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Detail of Haru Twill Waisted Jacket from AW19.
Sies Marjan Jacket DetailsTHIS WEEK

There were some interesting details on a style called the ‘Haru Twill Waisted Jacket’ from the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection from Sies Marjan. The jacket has a softly shaped feel, due to the gently nipped waist and the slight arc to the sleeves. The twill fabric used is also encouraging the design to fall into softly rounded folds, rather than crisp creases.

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Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta | The Cutting Class. Detail of black jeans that have been bleached to a peach colour.
Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus LattaMOST RECENT

There are some collections that are nicely layered with different colours and textures, but the layering on the catwalk can sometimes hide exactly what’s going on with all the fabrics and details. This is the case with some of the bleached jeans at Eckhaus Latta.

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Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen | The Cutting Class. Models in pink dresses from the Autumn-Winter 2018 collection.
Sumptuous Quilting at Cecilie BahnsenLAST WEEK IN FABRIC & TEXTILES

The collections from Cecilie Bahnsen create an interesting tug on the subconscious. The techniques and patterns used for satin quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen, seem reminiscent of old-fashioned yet decadent bed covers, except that they are gathered into cloud-like silhouettes.

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Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture AW19.
Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino CoutureLAST WEEK IN FABRICS & TEXTILES

One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a candy pink dress devoted entirely to bias binding. The overall shape of the dress had been broken down into small tapered pieces that changed in scale as they flowed down the dress, and each of these pieces was individually trimmed in bias binding in self fabric.

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Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Smocking detail.
Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueenFEATURED IN FABRICS & TEXTILES

Treading that fine line between fashion and costume, the Alexander McQueen collections always use fabrics and detailing in a way that seems otherworldly. This detail shows some of the intricate smocking at work in the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection by Sarah Burton.

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i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Asymmetrical knitwear from designer Zhi Chen.
i-am-chen Engineered KnitwearFEATURED FROM FABRICS & TEXTILES

Zhi Chen describes herself on the i-am-chen website as a technician rather than a fashion designer, explaining how she studies the workings of machines on the factory floor to exploit their full capabilities in her engineered knitwear. The results are vibrant asymmetrical pieces that play with volume and colour, that often involve computer programming to control the machines and create the designs.

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Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Haute Couture AW19. The Cutting Class.
Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino CoutureFEATURED FROM DESIGN DETAILS

While it was a first look of sunflower yellow that set the scene, it was the way that vibrant colours were used in combination that made the Valentino Haute Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2019 particularly delicious. The collection was peppered with citrus shades, such as burnt orange, with splices of lime against purple trousers. Meanwhile, pinks were often offset by deep burgundy, rust or flashes of crimson to prevent the candy pinks looking too sugary.

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Pocket Bags at Calvin Klein. The Cutting Class.
Calvin Klein Pocket BagsFEATURED FROM PATTERN MAKING

There was an interesting pocket detail at the Calvin Klein show for Autumn-Winter 2018 that featured a bulky pocket bag on the outside of the garment. In essence, this shape looks like it would be roughly like an oval at the top, with a curved edge along the zip line that continues in a circular seam into the armhole. The volume seems to be created with a dart, with the dart positioned…

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Tailored Jacket Hems - Straight or Curved? | The Cutting Class. Proenza Schouler, SS20. Double breasted jacket in grey.
Tailored Jacket Hems – Straight or Curved?FEATURED FROM DESIGN DETAILS

It’s one of those details that you just might not really think about until you notice it, but a crisply squared-off hem on a tailored jacket is a clean detail when applied to either menswear or womenswear. Tailored jacket hems are one of the many details that can be adjusted on single-breasted or double-breasted styles to influence the overall feel of the look and can be made into sharp corners, or soft curves, or any variation in between.

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Details on Jacquemus Raw Silk Shirt | The Cutting Class. Jacquemus shirt details from AW19 for the 'La chemise Loya' in dark beige and light blue.
Details on Jacquemus Raw Silk ShirtFEATURED FROM DESIGN DETAILS

In the second article, so far, of garments that have made it from catwalk to retail let’s take a look at the details on a Jacquemus raw silk shirt aka ‘La chemise Loya’ from Autumn-Winter 2019. Since this is now 2/2 on shirt details (the first being a Rejina Pyo shirt), it highlights that shirts are one of those styles that can be layered into runway looks with ease, but don’t need much tweaking to get them from catwalk sample to production-ready.

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Draping and Moulage | The Cutting Class. Progress image of draping on a Hervé L. Leroux garment for couture SS13.
Draping and MoulageFEATURED FROM PATTERN MAKING

While many designers design garments that can be created using flat pattern making techniques, other garments are created by working directly on a mannequin using techniques often referred to as “draping” or “moulage”. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when working in this way…

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Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya Watanabe | The Cutting Class. Junya Watanabe, AW15, Paris.
Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya WatanabeFEATURED FROM PATTERN MAKING

The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Junya Watanabe was filled with repetitive structures created with a mathematical sense of precision. While the shapes hinted at a rigorous pattern making process, the garments themselves often had a softness and a sense of bouncy movement.

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Details in Floral Prints at Stine Goya PF19 - The Cutting Class.
Details in Floral Prints at Stine GoyaFEATURED FROM FABRICS & TEXTILES

There are a whole host of designers who create dresses, blouses and trousers in a variety of prints and colours. The fact that many of these styles feel approachable and wearable, gives them an easy-breezy commercial quality that can easily hide how difficult they are to design. On a minimal monochrome look, it can be easy to appreciate the razor-sharp cut of the tailoring, or the considered placement of a dart. But it’s all too easy for a ditsy print to hide the careful placement of a seam line that has taken the style from prissy to cool.

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Couture Sensibilities at Botter and Nina Ricci | The Cutting Class. Botter, Menswear, SS20. Golden hooded coat.
Couture Sensibilities at Botter and Nina RicciFEATURED FROM DESIGN DETAILS

You can see it in the Botter lookbooks, but it is especially evident in the photographs of Nina Ricci Spring 2020. There is a certain sense of proportion, fabrication and silhouette in the work of creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh that has echoes of 1950s couture.

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Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Weave | The Cutting Class. The Pouch bag with Intrecciato weave in Topazio. Bag only.
BOTTEGA VENETA INTRECCIATO WEAVEFEATURED FROM FABRICS & TEXTILES

The woven design on The Pouch bag from Bottega Veneta is slightly more complex than first meets the eye. What looks like a simple woven pattern of separate strips, is created using slits in an underlayer to form a base for a dense and controlled weave pattern.

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