The Cutting Class

Couture Sensibilities at Botter and Nina Ricci | The Cutting Class. Botter, Menswear, SS20. Golden hooded coat.
Couture Sensibilities at Botter and Nina RicciMOST RECENT

You can see it in the Botter lookbooks, but it is especially evident in the photographs of Nina Ricci Spring 2020. There is a certain sense of proportion, fabrication and silhouette in the work of creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh that has echoes of 1950s couture.

Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Weave | The Cutting Class. The Pouch bag with Intrecciato weave in Topazio. Bag only.

The woven design on The Pouch bag from Bottega Veneta is slightly more complex than first meets the eye. What looks like a simple woven pattern of separate strips, is created using slits in an underlayer to form a base for a dense and controlled weave pattern.

Rejina Pyo Shirt Details - The Cutting Class. Pistachio Rory Shirt, Pre Fall 2019.
Rejina Pyo Pistachio Shirt DetailsLAST WEEK IN DESIGN DETAILS

With the churn of imagery for the fashion seasons, it can be easy for the little details of the more understated garments to slip by. So often we see catwalk and lookbook images of new collections in the heat of the moment as a new season is revealed without any follow-through. Did the garment make it into production? Did the design have to be changed from sample to shop floor (or direct-to-consumer website)?

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams Exhibition at V&A. © The Cutting Class, 2019.
V&A Christian Dior: Designer of DreamsLAST WEEK IN DESIGN DETAILS

The V&A’s blockbuster exhibition has now ended with record breaking attendance. This expansive exhibition paid homage to the legacy of Christian Dior, his innovative sense of silhouette, deep respect for the craft of haute couture, and the thematic threads that ran through his work and the designs of his successors…

Structural Waist Shaping at Dior Couture | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris.
Structural Waist Shaping at Dior CoutureFEATURED FROM SEWING & CONSTRUCTION

For the Christian Dior couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2014, the first section of the show was devoted to Raf Simons’ experiments with silhouette. More specifically the silhouettes seemed to reference the dress shapes of the 18th century, but in terms of technique…

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris.
Shattered Details and Deconstruction at UndercoverFEATURED FROM DESIGN DETAILS

The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Undercover was filled with sharp construction details and shattered design lines which were rounded out by rich colours, painted fabrics and voluminous drapes of velvet, satin and jersey. Soft and luxurious fabrics…

Draping and Moulage | The Cutting Class. Progress image of draping on a Hervé L. Leroux garment for couture SS13.

While many designers design garments that can be created using flat pattern making techniques, other garments are created by working directly on a mannequin using techniques often referred to as “draping” or “moulage”. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when working in this way…

Fashion by Numbers: Range Planning | The Cutting Class. Rick Owens AW11, hooded black garments.
Fashion by Numbers: Range PlanningFEATURED FROM DESIGN DETAILS

There are times when you look at the catwalk collections and the sheer volume of garments seems completely daunting, especially if you are a student who has just experienced the pressure of designing a small range, or if you are a young designer who is about to start their own label…