Ruched Dress by Japanese label Houga. Houga, AW19.
19 Nov 2019
Ruching, Pleating, Gathers and Ruffles at Houga

Houga, AW19. Moe Ishida, the designer behind Tokyo-based brand Houga, has a knack for creating laid-back party dresses that are oversized, asymmetrical and spliced through with ruffles, gathers and pleats. The fact that they are simply-styled and often cut in a single colour or pattern, means that a closer look...

Continue Reading
Ladies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Rubberist print dress from Christopher Kane AW19 collection.
14 Nov 2019
Ladies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, AW19, London. Christopher Kane is a designer who knows how to flesh out a collection in the old school way - taking an idea or theme as a jumping-off point and iterating the idea out to the end of each tangent until new and surprising results emerge. From...

Continue Reading
The Christian Dior Toile Room | The Cutting Class. Images of toiles from the 2019 V&A exhibition paired with their catwalk versions.
05 Nov 2019
The Christian Dior Toile Room

Toile of garment, Christian Dior by John Galliano, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2007. One of the most amazing rooms in the V&A Exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was the toile room, a vast room filled with the ghostly prototypes of couture seasons. Being a minimalist at heart, there is something...

Continue Reading
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class.
29 Oct 2019
Zip Details from Prada AW1999

Prada, AW1999. Sometimes you see an image pop up and even though it's from a collection that's 20 years old, you feel like the garment could just as easily have been created for a new collection. Such was the case when an image of zip details from Prada AW1999 appeared....

Continue Reading
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga tailoring AW19, Fluo Yellow Car Coat.
22 Oct 2019
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga

Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga, AW19. Sometimes it seems like a bit of a shame that there was so much hype surrounding the work of Demna Gvasalia at Vetements and Balenciaga. Some of the designs that came off as a bit gimmicky have tended to obscure the serious work on silhouette...

Continue Reading
Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta | The Cutting Class. Styles 'Baggy Jean Chemtrail' and 'Wide Leg Jean Tri Stacked' from the AW19 collection.
17 Oct 2019
Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta

Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta, 'Baggy Jean Chemtrail' and 'Wide Leg Jean Tri Stacked' from the AW19 collection. There are some collections that are nicely layered with different colours and textures, but the layering on the catwalk can sometimes hide exactly what's going on with all the fabrics and details....

Continue Reading
Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Detail of Haru Twill Waisted Jacket from AW19.
15 Oct 2019
Sies Marjan Jacket Details

Sies Marjan Jacket Details, AW19. There were some interesting details on a style called the 'Haru Twill Waisted Jacket' from the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection from Sies Marjan. The jacket has a softly shaped feel, due to the gently nipped waist and the slight arc to the sleeves. The twill fabric...

Continue Reading
Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture AW19.
10 Oct 2019
Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture

Bias Binding at Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a candy pink dress devoted entirely to bias binding. The overall shape of the dress had been broken down into small...

Continue Reading
Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen | The Cutting Class. Models in pink dresses from the Autumn-Winter 2018 collection.
08 Oct 2019
Sumptuous Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen

Cecilie Bahnsen, AW18, Copenhagen. The collections from Cecilie Bahnsen create an interesting tug on the subconscious. The techniques and patterns used for satin quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen, seem reminiscent of old-fashioned yet decadent bed covers, except that they are gathered into cloud-like silhouettes. The textures, colours, and styling also all...

Continue Reading
i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Asymmetrical knitwear from designer Zhi Chen.
03 Oct 2019
i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear

i-am-chen, AW19. Zhi Chen describes herself on the i-am-chen website┬╗ as a technician rather than a fashion designer, explaining how she studies the workings of machines on the factory floor to exploit their full capabilities in her engineered knitwear. The results are vibrant asymmetrical pieces that play with volume and...

Continue Reading
Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Haute Couture AW19. The Cutting Class.
01 Oct 2019
Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Couture

Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. While it was a first look of sunflower yellow that set the scene, it was the way that vibrant colours were used in combination that made the Valentino Haute Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2019 particularly delicious. The collection was peppered with citrus shades, such as...

Continue Reading
Pocket Bags at Calvin Klein. The Cutting Class.
26 Sep 2019
Calvin Klein Pocket Bags

Calvin Klein pocket bags. Calvin Klein, 205W39NYC (AW18), New York. There was an interesting pocket detail at the Calvin Klein show for Autumn-Winter 2018 that featured a bulky pocket bag on the outside of the garment. In essence, this shape looks like it would be roughly like an oval at...

Continue Reading