Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture | The Cutting Class. Panelled dress with oversized sleeves from the SS20 Haute Couture collection.
26 Mar 2020
Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture

Guo Pei, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There are times where we want fashion to be a slightly elevated version of the everyday, and then there are times where you just need the technical skill, unmitigated escapism and pure spectacle. The collections of Guo Pei, with intricate textiles and atelier craft,...

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Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe | The Cutting Class. Detail of gathered fabric and ceramic plate by artist Takuro Kuwata from the AW20 collection.
13 Mar 2020
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe

Loewe, AW20, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, featured fabric that had been draped and gathered around central ceramic disks or bold matte black central panels. The fabric sections were often carefully segmented and draped individually to draw around these panels, and in turn, draw the...

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Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake | The Cutting Class. AW20 Multi-coloured connected knits.
08 Mar 2020
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake, AW20, Paris. The Issey Miyake Autumn-Winter 2020 collection led by designer Satoshi Kondo, was made up of a series of smaller stories. These stories explored the "words and feelings derived naturally from the process of making things by hand" as a series of mini-collections with interconnected details. Overall,...

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A Modular Anrealage Silhouette Through Blocks | The Cutting Class. Garments are broken into sections and can be rearranged using snaps.
28 Feb 2020
A Modular Anrealage Silhouette Through Blocks

Anrealage, AW20, Paris. So often a collection is developed from a point where the initial spark is directly related to the final outcome. Like asking a question and knowing roughly what the answer will be. For example, a designer might develop a pattern from the shape of the body, be...

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The Rule of Thirds Applied to JW Anderson | The Cutting Class. Design features in different ratios will change how the proportions of the garment are perceived. AW20.
19 Feb 2020
The Rule of Thirds Applied to JW Anderson

JW Anderson, London, AW20. It can be a fun game (depending on your idea of "fun", of course) to look at the proportions of the looks when you are clicking through the images on a collection. Just like the way that certain photography compositions look more pleasing to the eye based...

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Integrated Jewellery and Lingerie Details at Dion Lee | The Cutting Class. AW20, New York.
14 Feb 2020
Integrated Jewellery and Lingerie Details at Dion Lee

Dion Lee, AW20, New York. With fishnet inserts, cutouts, and corset-like closures the Dion Lee show for Autumn-Winter 2020 was peppered with references to lingerie. Custom-made jewellery and hardware also meant that chain elements were often integrated into the design of the pieces, at times challenging the typical anchor points...

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Craig Green Quilted Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Details on pink SS20 jacket.
06 Feb 2020
Craig Green Quilted Jacket Details

Craig Green Quilted Jacket, SS20. You have to wonder if there is a psychological advantage to wearing a Craig Green quilted jacket. The quilted sections are like soft armour plates to protect you from the outside world, and when seen in a pink colourway, they look vaguely like the sinewy...

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Slight Dropped Shoulders at The Row | The Cutting Class. Pre Fall 2020.
30 Jan 2020
Slightly Dropped Shoulders at The Row

The Row, PF20. Quiet, minimal collections usually require slower viewing to appreciate the details because it is the small tweaks that make the difference. In the case of The Row's Pre Fall 2020 collection, there was a very slightly dropped shoulder that looks carefully shaped to create a gently rounded...

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Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen | The Cutting Class. Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture.
22 Jan 2020
Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There is a certain romanticised view of what haute couture entails - hard-working ateliers full of petite mains, painstakingly cutting every last snip of fabric, and sewing every last stitch by hand. There is a place in fashion, of course, for this preservation...

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Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams | The Cutting Class. AW20 Menswear collection by sustainable designer Bethany Williams.
14 Jan 2020
Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams

Bethany Williams, AW20, Menswear, London. While some designers and brands attempt to add a sustainable component to an existing fashion business, Bethany Williams has been steadily working on building a business where her approach to sustainability is intrinsic to the structure and motivation of the business. The sustainability in her...

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Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Broad shouldered 'Zionic' jacket.
12 Dec 2019
Rick Owens Jacket Details

Rick Owens Jacket Details on 'Zionic' jacket from AW19. In another article focusing on a garment that has made it through from catwalk to retail», this time the focus is on the Zionic jacket from Rick Owens' Autumn-Winter 2019 collection. What is most striking about this jacket, particularly when first...

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Translucent Layers at Simone Rocha, Spring-Summer 2020. Blue printed design on sheer white background.
05 Dec 2019
Translucent Layers at Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha, SS20, London. The Spring-Summer 2020 collection from Simone Rocha featured asymmetrical layers of sheer fabrics that had been gathered into transparent flounces and ruffles. The embellished fabric used, often blue on a white background, appeared like fine translucent porcelain, creating a delicate effect. While the collection itself featured...

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