Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture AW19.
10 Oct 2019
Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture

Bias Binding at Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a candy pink dress devoted entirely to bias binding. The overall shape of the dress had been broken down into small...

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Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen | The Cutting Class. Models in pink dresses from the Autumn-Winter 2018 collection.
08 Oct 2019
Sumptuous Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen

Cecilie Bahnsen, AW18, Copenhagen. The collections from Cecilie Bahnsen create an interesting tug on the subconscious. The techniques and patterns used for satin quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen, seem reminiscent of old-fashioned yet decadent bed covers, except that they are gathered into cloud-like silhouettes. The textures, colours, and styling also all...

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i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Asymmetrical knitwear from designer Zhi Chen.
03 Oct 2019
i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear

i-am-chen, AW19. Zhi Chen describes herself on the i-am-chen website» as a technician rather than a fashion designer, explaining how she studies the workings of machines on the factory floor to exploit their full capabilities in her engineered knitwear. The results are vibrant asymmetrical pieces that play with volume and...

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Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Haute Couture AW19. The Cutting Class.
01 Oct 2019
Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Couture

Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. While it was a first look of sunflower yellow that set the scene, it was the way that vibrant colours were used in combination that made the Valentino Haute Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2019 particularly delicious. The collection was peppered with citrus shades, such as...

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Pocket Bags at Calvin Klein. The Cutting Class.
26 Sep 2019
Calvin Klein Pocket Bags

Calvin Klein pocket bags. Calvin Klein, 205W39NYC (AW18), New York. There was an interesting pocket detail at the Calvin Klein show for Autumn-Winter 2018 that featured a bulky pocket bag on the outside of the garment. In essence, this shape looks like it would be roughly like an oval at...

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Tailored Jacket Hems - Straight or Curved? | The Cutting Class. Proenza Schouler, SS20. Double breasted jacket in grey.
24 Sep 2019
Tailored Jacket Hems – Straight or Curved?

Proenza Schouler, SS20, New York. It's one of those details that you just might not really think about until you notice it, but a crisply squared-off hem on a tailored jacket is a clean detail when applied to either menswear or womenswear. Tailored jacket hems are one of the many...

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Details on Jacquemus Raw Silk Shirt | The Cutting Class. Jacquemus shirt details from AW19 for the 'La chemise Loya' in dark beige and light blue.
19 Sep 2019
Details on Jacquemus Raw Silk Shirt

Jacquemus, AW19, 'La chemise Loya' in dark beige and light blue. In the second article, so far, of garments that have made it from catwalk to retail let's take a look at the details on a Jacquemus raw silk shirt aka 'La chemise Loya' from Autumn-Winter 2019. Since this is...

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Details in Floral Prints at Stine Goya PF19 - The Cutting Class.
17 Sep 2019
Details in Floral Prints at Stine Goya

Stine Goya, Pre Fall 2019. There are a whole host of designers who create dresses, blouses and trousers in a variety of prints and colours. The fact that many of these styles feel approachable and wearable, gives them an easy-breezy commercial quality that can easily hide how difficult they are...

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Couture Sensibilities at Botter and Nina Ricci | The Cutting Class. Botter, Menswear, SS20. Golden hooded coat.
12 Sep 2019
Couture Sensibilities at Botter and Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci, SS20. You can see it in the Botter lookbooks, but it is especially evident in the photographs of Nina Ricci Spring 2020. There is a certain sense of proportion, fabrication and silhouette in the work of creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh that has echoes of 1950s...

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Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Weave | The Cutting Class. The Pouch bag with Intrecciato weave in Topazio. Bag only.
10 Sep 2019
Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Weave

Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Weave as seen on The Pouch shown here in Topazio. The woven design on The Pouch bag from Bottega Veneta is slightly more complex than first meets the eye. What looks like a simple woven pattern of separate strips, is created using slits in an underlayer to...

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Rejina Pyo Shirt Details - The Cutting Class. Pistachio Rory Shirt, Pre Fall 2019.
05 Sep 2019
Rejina Pyo Pistachio Shirt Details

Rory shirt from Rejina Pyo, Pre Fall 2019. With the churn of imagery for the fashion seasons, it can be easy for the little details of the more understated garments to slip by. So often we see catwalk and lookbook images of new collections in the heat of the moment...

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Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams Exhibition at V&A. © The Cutting Class, 2019.
01 Sep 2019
V&A Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams

Image of the Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams Exhibition. Image courtesy of the V&A © Adrien Dirand 2019. For those lucky enough to have tickets (or able to snag some on the day), this is the final weekend in the V&A's exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. This expansive exhibition paid...

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