A Nod to Process at Vionnet

A Nod to Process at Vionnet

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris.

Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris.

In his first collection working on Demi-Couture at Vionnet, Hussein Chalayan created a range of garments that worked with pleating and layers of sheer fabrics often embellished with cords and metal hardware. There was also a nod to the pattern making process with fabric prints that resembled pattern making paper.

The fact that there is a nod to the pattern cutting table in the collection creates a strong link between the House of Vionnet as it stood under Madame Vionnet and in the work created by Chalayan in his own label. In an interview with Style.com» in the weeks before the show Chalayan describes how he spends “hours trying to eliminate seams in coats and dresses” and that it is this aspect of the work that he finds exciting. Similarly, Vionnet is well known for her pattern and draping work, developing dresses on the bias grain of the fabric that clung to the curves of the body.

It is this form of quiet innovation that joins the two designers, rather than direct historical referencing on the part of Chalayan. This idea seems to come out best in this collection in the form of the laser cut organza dresses that use layers of sheer fabric to build up subtle colour variations, around concentric circles that ripple out from the hips, thighs and waistlines of the models.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 1.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 2.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 3.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 4.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 5.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 6.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 7.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 9.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 10.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 11.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 12.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 13.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 14.

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris, Image 15.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Image of Dot and Cross paper from MacCulloch&Wallis»

Recent Articles

Ruched Dress by Japanese label Houga. Houga, AW19.
19 Nov 2019
Ruching, Pleating, Gathers and Ruffles at Houga
Houga, AW19. Moe Ishida, the designer behind Tokyo-based brand Houga, has a knack for creating laid-back party dresses that are oversized, asymmetrical and spliced through with ruffles, gathers and pleats....
Ladies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Rubberist print dress from Christopher Kane AW19 collection.
14 Nov 2019
Ladies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane, AW19, London. Christopher Kane is a designer who knows how to flesh out a collection in the old school way - taking an idea or theme as a...
The Christian Dior Toile Room | The Cutting Class. Images of toiles from the 2019 V&A exhibition paired with their catwalk versions.
05 Nov 2019
The Christian Dior Toile Room
Toile of garment, Christian Dior by John Galliano, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2007. One of the most amazing rooms in the V&A Exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was the toile...