Balancing Proportions at Chanel

Balancing Proportions at Chanel


Chanel, AW13, Paris.

In the recent Autumn-Winter 2013 collection for Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld made the high thigh area the erogenous zone of choice, creating layered garments that focused on a narrow rectangle of skin that appeared just above thigh high boots and just below flared skirts and jackets.

This narrow sliver of skin was used to balance out other oversized proportions in the collections such as dropped shoulder jackets that were wide and round from the front and yet surprisingly slim when viewed in profile. This idea of the wide and the narrow, the oversized and the skin tight, flowed through the garments of the collection often appearing in triangular shaped sleeve and cuff details and in flared skirts and jacket tails.

Another detail of note was the use of a front jacket seam that went horizontally across the front of jackets above the bust line that was used in conjunction with vertical darts from the waistline to create a flattened style of bust shaping. The use of this horizontal seam meant that pattern pieces at the front of jackets often flowed across from the shoulder area directly into the sleeve without the need for a classic set in sleeve line.

Detailing elements for the collection often played with the use of the world globe as a sphere and the world map as a 2D motif. The result of this was seen in tiny globe buttons on much of the collection as well as a globe handbag and a self fabric pattern that used the world map as a repeat pattern.


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