Maison Martin Margiela, Couture, AW12, Paris.
For their debut haute couture collection, the Margiela team put together an unusual mix of fabrics and textures to create an alternative version of glamour. In the Autumn-Winter 2012 collection there were references to interiors with giant glass door knobs or curtain rod fixtures used as fasteners on raw edged tailoring, or at the apex of draped silks and laces.
A close look at the details appeared to suggest the references were not just to interiors but in the act of shopping for interiors and other luxury goods. One such interesting detail was the use of fabric cards as pocket squares with text that appeared to name check French department stores such as Grand Magasins du Louvre and Printemps and possibly the 18th century French silk designer Philippe de Lasalle. There was also a neckpiece reminiscent of black velour jewellery display stands.
Then there were the more obscure references to sporting goods including pieces draped from flattened baseball gloves, and a finale coat made from a Renegade sail complete with a center back view with the measurements for the luff, boom and mast.