Black Volume at Viktor and Rolf

Black Volume at Viktor and Rolf

Viktor and Rolf, Couture, AW13, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2013 couture collection by Viktor and Rolf was an exploration of organic black shapes created by panelling generous volumes of fabric.

The collection provided a perfect example of how seam lines can be used to manipulate the shaping and volume of fabric. By inserting seam lines into fabric it means that you can increase and decrease the volume on each side of the seam line independently, causing half the garment to expand or contract as needed to create the desired silhouette.

The position of seam lines also means that you can control where the fabric will fold when you have large amounts of volume, by encouraging the fabric to settle into certain folds.

Some of the panelling in the collection formed shapes that were inset inside larger expanses of fabric. You may have seen similar ideas used in the cult Pattern Magic pattern making books», and these inset panels can be manipulated to created pockets that collapse inside or outside of the garment.

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen | The Cutting Class. Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture.
22 Jan 2020
Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There is a certain romanticised view of what haute couture entails - hard-working ateliers full of petite mains, painstakingly cutting every last snip...
Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams | The Cutting Class. AW20 Menswear collection by sustainable designer Bethany Williams.
14 Jan 2020
Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams
Bethany Williams, AW20, Menswear, London. While some designers and brands attempt to add a sustainable component to an existing fashion business, Bethany Williams has been steadily working on building a...
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Broad shouldered 'Zionic' jacket.
12 Dec 2019
Rick Owens Jacket Details
Rick Owens Jacket Details on 'Zionic' jacket from AW19. In another article focusing on a garment that has made it through from catwalk to retail», this time the focus is...