Antipodium, SS13, London.
The Spring-Summer 2013 collection by Antipodium referenced cosmetic surgery and fleshy skin tones through creepy placement prints and a variety of textures that worked with the curves of the body. The placement prints came in the form of single colour line work that was reminiscent of cosmetic surgery markings.
Antipodium’s creative director Geoffrey J. Finch uses different collaborators each season, and the pre-surgery placement prints were the result of a collaboration with Dr. Tim Goodacre, president of the British Association for Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgeons. A further institutional reference came in the form of a moulded latex trench, that was cleverly cut to use the raw edges of the latex and outlined with black trim.
A second print involved a grid-like pattern of flesh coloured squares that were gradated towards the valleys of the body and that mimicked the colour variations of “skin-coloured” cosmetic colours. This palette print was worked into a pleated skirt and also into the back of a blouse where the knife pleats were secured down to the shoulder blade line and then opened up to create fullness around the waist.
The fleshy pinks and oranges of the collection were offset by the occasional use of glossy black patent leather to add a darker undertone to the collection. The use of black and some cleverly disjointed tailoring added a subversive edge to the garments, in contrast to other more kawaii details such as pencil skirts with built in bum bags.
Images from Antipodium»
