Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14.

NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14.

In his graduate collection for Spring-Summer 2014, artist and designer Neil Grotzinger created textiles that had an unconstrained and spontaneous quality with placement prints that appeared to be dripping with paint and beaded lines creeping across dresses like iron filings on a magnet.

The organic quality of the textiles and the scattered effect of the embellishments seem to be the direct result of Grotzinger’s focus on creating pieces that are specifically made to be unique. In fact, the more unique and inimitable the textile the better, as he sets out to create pieces that are almost more like individual pieces of wearable art.

Having “uniqueness” as a motivating factor allows the embellishment to be more complex and more spontaneous than it perhaps would have been had it been designed specifically for a ready-to-wear collection; essentially giving Grotzinger’s work a perspective more similar to a couture collection.

Aside from the textile treatments, the idea of the wearable artwork also seems to play into the shapes of the garments with screen printed or embellished areas occasionally “framed” with a plain white, black or grey surround. Some of the beaded embellishment also seems to hint at Grotzinger’s background in painting, although the medium of beading perhaps allows the colours and textures of a painting to become 3D and have movement with the wearer’s body in a way which painting alone could not quite achieve.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 1. Contrast beads on the end of long bugle beads.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 2. Frame detail and blended screen printing pigments.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 3. Fabric appears to be screen printed, then cut and repieced.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 4. Printed textiles broken up by thick sections of black.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 5. Embellished shoulder detail.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 6.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 7. Black embellishment on white fabric creates sketchy effect.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 8. Simple frame front and embellished back panel.

Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14, Image 9. Unusual colour combinations used within the beading.

NIHL is the name of the label created by artist and designer Neil Grotzinger.

Images from NIHL by Neil Grotzinger»

Recent Articles

21 Feb 2016
Pattern and Print at Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci, PF16. Historically, Pucci is a brand that is synonymous with print. By looking through the Pre-Fall 2016 collection by creative director Massimo Giorgetti, you can see some of...
04 Jan 2016
Thinking Like a Designer
In this final round-up post about the articles from 2015, we’ve gathered together some food for thought if you are about to become a fashion designer, or fashion design student...
29 Dec 2015
Finding the Balance for Casual Luxury
Part of what has been interesting about 2015 has been watching as designers continue to use construction details as a way to strike a balance in their collections. An underlying...