Encrusted Fabrics & Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel

Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris.

The sheer size of the Chanel couture collections, combined with the technical abilities of the crafts people who work on the collections, always creates a need to view the collection from afar and up close. In this way you can appreciate the silhouettes and proportions of the garments, and then look closer to see the insane level of detail in the fabrics and materials.

Aside from the continued exploration of the boxy Chanel jacket, this season brought added experiments with slightly more historical silhouettes with the appearance of bell shaped skirts that ended around knee level. It is also interesting to see that in this couture season where the Dior show also included 18th century silhouettes», there were a number of dresses in the Chanel show that explored a wider hip shape that curved out softly from below waist level. In the Chanel show this was a slightly more cocooned shape that widened out by the top of the thigh level and then fell straight, or softly tapered back in towards the ankles.

The bell shaped skirt silhouettes and boxy coats were often combined in outfits with shorts, which were worn slim around the leg and fell a couple of inches above the knee. These shorts, usually shown in self fabrics to match the rest of the look, added slightly more length to the line of the garments and, despite the fact that it was a couture show, made the models look slightly more industrious.

The more historical silhouettes, which were shown mainly at the end of the collection in white, were often combined with densely packed beading and embroidery in gold tones which further emphasised the regal feeling of these pieces. As usual, these embellishments on closer inspection were not mere reproductions of historical techniques and instead seemed to reference the textures and colours of printed circuit boards and electrical components.

Perhaps one of the most interesting materials used in the collection was actually the tiny concrete tiles that appeared to be created across a grid of threads, which meant that the tiles could be used as a fabric, or cut into strips and squares to create trims and button covers. In Tim Blanks’ review of the show» he mentions how Karl Lagerfeld used these concrete tiles as a reference to Corbusier and even demonstrated the lightness of the material to journalists at the show using a string of concrete beads.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 1. Encrusted back panel covered with tiny square tiles.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 2. Tiny square tiles hang from the cuffs.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 3. Rows of concrete tiles are cut and used as trim beside sequins.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 4. Broken grid of concrete tiles layered over sequins.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 5. Appears to be edged with metallic thread sewn as a blanket stitch.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 6.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 7. Shorts are used as an underlayer throughout the collection.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 8. Specially decorated fabric covered with beading.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 9. Appears to be lace layered with plastic.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 10. Light coloured lining and straps are used to support the shape.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 11. Horizontal seam line allows sleeves and top section to be cut as one panel.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 12. Multi layered fabric covered with small flowers.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 13. Raised shoulder silhouette.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 14.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 15. Discs are inserted into fabric to create a 3D effect.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 16. Loops and tiles create 3D effects.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 17. Embellishments on neck and armhole look like electrical components.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 18. Top overlay created from tiny concrete tiles.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 19. Feathers layered under tulle.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 20. Top is encrusted with beads.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 21. Fabric encrusted with beads.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 22. Tiny concrete tiles used in combination with beading and sequins.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 23. Tiny concrete tiles.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 24. Feathers trapped inside tulle.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 25. Chvron pleating and sheer cut aways.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 26. Slashed metallic material.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 27. Beaded trim details.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 28. Tiny flower shaped sequins over black background.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 29.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 30. Long sequins appear to be doubled over to create loops.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 31. Velvet trim on cuffs and hem.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 32. Embellished fabric looks like a circuit board.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 33.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 34.

Encrusted Fabrics and Sculpted Silhouettes at Chanel | The Cutting Class. Chanel, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris, Image 35. Lace details are covered in caviar beads.