Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris.

Treading that fine line between fashion and costume, the Alexander McQueen collections always use fabrics and detailing in a way that seems otherworldly. For Autumn-Winter 2014, Sarah Burton’s collection involved embellishment and textile work that blurred the lines between fabric, feathers and fur.

The dark fairytale that appeared to be played out by the catwalk show involved traditional embellishment techniques such as smocking and pleating which were used on light broderie anglaise to create tiered dresses in triangular silhouettes.

The types of clothing details that would be name-checked in fairytales such as dresses laced with thick velvet ribbons, seemed to reappear in this tale slightly twisted, with thick black velvet ribbons wrapping through oversized grommets, or white velvet ribbons holding closed a hooded fur.

Some garments were entirely taken over by the embellishments, such as the coats covered in tiny jewel-toned feathers and the dresses taken over by large rough flowers that appeared to be made out of fabric with frayed edges.

The appearance of the textile, and the actual composition was constantly blurred throughout the collection. Some garments featured small tufts of fibres which could have been fur, or trailing feathers, or that may have actually been some sort of shredded fabric. (In an interview on Style.com», Suzy Menkes mentions that the tufts were actually created using shredded organza).

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 1. Small ruffles shaped like stars.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 2. Broderie anglaise pleated to create tiers.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 3. Trimmed with small black pom poms.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 4. Leaf motif in flocking and jewellery.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 5. Tiny shredded fabric from shredded organza.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 7. Shredded fabric creates a blurred effect.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 8. Rows of embellishment highlight square neckline.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 9. Delicate smocking on high neckline.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 10. Hooded fur coat.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 11. Small tufts of fur or shredded fabric.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 12. Combination of black and white fur.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 13. Heavyweight grommets and zips.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 14. Large grommets with velvet ribbons.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 15. Tiny layered feathers.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 16. Edged with different feathers.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 17. Hand sewn jewel clusters.

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris, Image 18. Internal structure may be used to support the trapeze silhouette.