Part of what has been interesting about 2015 has been watching as designers continue to use construction details as a way to strike a balance in their collections. An underlying question seems to be constantly asked about how to give a consumer a high-end garment experience without making them look overdressed, to express quality through the finishes and detailing without having garments that scream “luxury”. Part of this balance is found by experimenting with new methods of deconstruction, sometimes as a part of the fabric treatment or pattern shaping, or sometimes just simply through styling.
Céline, AW15, Paris.
Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline
Bet you never think of topstitching as nonchalant, right? What about pattern making, can you cut a dart like you just don’t care? This is the bizarre skill that is needed to be a fashion designer; can you convey a certain mood for a collection not just through your choice of fabric or the way you cut a jacket, but through every single choice and detail down to the last contrast buttonhole.
Louis Vuitton, AW15, Paris.
Wearable Innovation at Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière has a knack for creating collections that look very wearable but that are still filled with quietly innovative construction details and carefully developed fabrics. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Louis Vuitton these elements were combined together in unusual ways to create garments and looks that were a blur of textures and construction references.
Gucci, AW15, Milan.
Crushed and Creased Tailoring at Gucci
The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Gucci had a more subtle atmosphere, a more come-as-you-are version of “fashion” with pieces layered together in a way that felt lived-in. In particular it was interesting to see the way that this undone quality was used across the tailored pieces with crumpled finishes and unusual pressing techniques.
Off-White, SS16, Paris.
Fractured Layers at Off-White
The Off-White collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was filled with deconstructed finishes and patchworked denim set against crisp white t-shirts and structured pleating.