Céline, AW14, Paris.

The Céline collection for Autumn-Winter 2014 used a muted colour palette to explore small garment details and finishing touches that included hairy centre back trims, chunky jewels and contrast buttonhole stitches.

At times contrasting colours or textures were used for graphic affect, such as the black and white garments where edges were carefully rolled and finished to create just the right definition lines on the garment.

At other times the interplay of textures was more off-beat with yellow buttons popping against a mottled grey. Sometimes the textures were almost invisible, with self coloured bindings acting as a neatening and streamlining agent against the edges of softer fabrics. Or white fringing running down the sleeves of a white coat. There was also an interesting effect towards the end of the collection where jackets were cut so that each half of the jacket was made from a different texture.

The main experiment with pattern cutting in the collection came in the form of two tops which used a combination of seams and darts to create panels that curl and spike up above the shoulder line. If you look at these garments you can see that the armhole seams sit lower on the top of the arm than a standard sleeve. To compensate for this the body panels are carefully placed so that the garments just cup the top of the shoulder, holding the garment in place and creating a wide, open neckline. 

Images from Vogue.co.uk»