Valentino, AW15, Paris.
Aside from the lacier side» of the Valentino show for Autumn-Winter 2015, there was a range of garments presented with minimal monochrome details and intricate geometric fabrics edged with beads and gold stitching.
The beginning of the collection was dominated by eye-catching patterns in geometric monochrome that appeared to be prints, but as Maria Grazia Chiuri explained, these garments were actually made with patchwork techniques. These patchwork processes carried through to garments later in the collection that used black and vivid colours to create intricate patterns on dresses and coats.
The geometry of the triangles seen in the black and white garments also reappeared later in the collection, this time as a delicate open pattern, which was edged with gold stitching and seen hanging in skirts styled with oversized knitwear.
Trim was a key element of these monochrome garments with piping used to created striking outlines on dresses, skirts and shirts. The piping was used as a contrast with white or black lines tracing the shape of garment details such as cuffs, plackets and collars or helping to define panel lines.
From a pattern cutting perspective, an interesting detail was the use of flanges which were created to sit on either side of a central bodice panel. These flanges were cut as the more architectural cousins of the lace flanges that were used in other parts of the collection.
Images of monochrome at Valentino from Vogue.co.uk»