Geometric Monochrome at Valentino

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris.

Valentino, AW15, Paris.

Aside from the lacier side of the Valentino show for Autumn-Winter 2015, there was a range of garments presented with minimal monochrome details and intricate geometric fabrics edged with beads and gold stitching.

The beginning of the collection was dominated by eye-catching patterns in geometric monochrome that appeared to be prints, but as Maria Grazia Chiuri explained, these garments were actually made with patchwork techniques. These patchwork processes carried through to garments later in the collection that used black and vivid colours to create intricate patterns on dresses and coats.

The geometry of the triangles seen in the black and white garments also reappeared later in the collection, this time as a delicate open pattern, which was edged with gold stitching and seen hanging in skirts styled with oversized knitwear.

Trim was a key element of these monochrome garments with piping used to created striking outlines on dresses, skirts and shirts. The piping was used as a contrast with white or black lines tracing the shape of garment details such as cuffs, plackets and collars or helping to define panel lines.

From a pattern cutting perspective, an interesting detail was the use of flanges which were created to sit on either side of a central bodice panel. These flanges were cut as the more architectural cousins of the lace flanges that were used  in other parts of the collection.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 1. Geometric monochrome created as a patchwork.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 2. Stripes meet to form a chevron pattern at side seam.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 3. Body divided up into different sections of pattern.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 4. Geometric knitwear patterns.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 5. Flanges either side of a central panel.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 6. Flanges either side of a central panel.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 7. Front edges and epaulettes edged with contrast trim.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 8. Buttons and chain form closure with buttonholes.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 9. Narrow piping defines panel lines.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 10. Black piping highlights dropped waist.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 11. Black piping defines cuff and placket.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 12. White appears to be cut into underlayer of pleats.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 13. White piping defines details and silhouette.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 14. Shaped front panel used to curve fabric over shoulder.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 15. Geometric monochrome on bags.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 16. Sheer stripes radiate from neckline and follow shoulder curves.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 17. Triangular fabric appears to be edged with gold stitching.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 18. Appears to be leather appliqué surrounded by tiny beads.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 19. Triangles in different sizes shaped to fit body.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 20. Black appliqué and beading on white background.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 21. Appliquéd panels radiate from neckline.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 22. Flanges panelled either side of centre panel.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 23. Same silhouette used as previous item but cut without centre panel.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 24. Strap goes through slit in side seam to create shape underbust.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 25. Geometric patchwork.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 26. Geometric patchwork.

Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 27. Garments with coloured embroidery.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

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