Glossary: Princess Panel Lines

Glossary: Princess Panel Lines | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris. Bodice seam lines continue from the armhole down over the bust and to the waist.

Christian Dior, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris.

Here are a couple of examples of how princess panel lines were used in the Christian Dior haute couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2014. The example images show how the seam line can begin from the armhole or from the shoulder line, continuing down through or close to the bust point, and down through the waist.

Princess seam lines are a way of shaping bodice patterns to take into account the shaping around the bust and waist without the need for darts. In order for the seam line to do this effectively it has to pass over the bust point, or pass very close to the bust point. The further away from the bust point that you place your panel line, the harder it will be to shape the pattern pieces effectively without the need for additional darts or seam lines.

You can see a tutorial on how to turn a darted bodice pattern into a bodice pattern with princess seam lines in the post Fundamentals of Pattern Making: Princess Panel LinesĀ»

Note how in the examples below from the Dior show, the white dress uses princess panel lines in combination with additional short panel lines. In this situation you would toile and perfect the fit of the basic princess panel shape first, before you divide the pattern up into additional pieces.

Glossary: Princess Panel Lines | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris. Princess seam lines that start at the armhole.

Glossary: Princess Panel Lines | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, AW14, Paris. Princess seam lines that start at the shoulder line.

Images from Vogue.co.ukĀ»

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