i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear

i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear

i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Asymmetrical knitwear from designer Zhi Chen.
i-am-chen, AW19.

Zhi Chen describes herself on the i-am-chen website» as a technician rather than a fashion designer, explaining how she studies the workings of machines on the factory floor to exploit their full capabilities in her engineered knitwear. The results are vibrant asymmetrical pieces that play with volume and colour, that often involve computer programming to control the machines and create the designs.

The pieces shown below are examples of garments that have made it to retail on the Brown’s website. Both the asymmetrical skirt and the green sweater appear to use a technique where multiple layers are used to create texture. In the case of the skirt, it seems as though the backing yarns or backing layer are pulled shorter than the front layer to create a ribbed texture. In the case of the green sweater, the backing layer appears to be pulled narrower to create controlled wrinkles on the front of the garment.

Throughout the designs colour blocking is used, often with a dominant colour, secondary colours in medium-size bands, and then finally splashes of accent colours in small trim details and tipping. Ribbing and ribbed texture is also used to highlight how Chen has played with asymmetry and volume in the pieces. For example, on both the pink sweater and the red skirt, the ribbed texture is a linear detail that helps to communicate where the garment is following the line of the body, and where it has been diverted into a different design line or detail.

In the case of the red skirt, the thicker texture of the knit helps to support the desired silhouette at the side because of the added thickness. You can imagine that the knit structure has a much bouncier, heavier handle in forming the design than the same basic pattern would encourage in a woven fabric.

i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Red knit skirt with asymmetrical trim.
Added volume on knit skirt from i-am-chen created with additional side panel. By designer Zhi Chen on The Cutting Class.
i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Red knit skirt from i-am-chen with contrast yellow and blue tipping.
i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. Contrast tipping on knitwear collar.
Asymmetrical knitwear with contrast colour used for linking. By designer Zhi Chen of i-am-chen on The Cutting Class.
Pink knit sweater with all over rib design and slit details in sleeves. By designer Zhi Chen of i-am-chen on The Cutting Class.
i-am-chen Engineered Knitwear | The Cutting Class. From designer Zhi Chen using multiple layers to create wrinkled effect in knitwear.
i-am-chen knitwear with contrast stripe on cuffs. By designer Zhi Chen on The Cutting Class.

i-am-chen engineered knitwear images from Browns»
To see more collections visit i-am-chen.com»

Add a comment

*Please complete all required fields correctly. Your email address will not be displayed publicly.

Recent Articles

Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture AW19.
10 Oct 2019
Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture
Bias Binding at Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a...
Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen | The Cutting Class. Models in pink dresses from the Autumn-Winter 2018 collection.
08 Oct 2019
Sumptuous Quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen
Cecilie Bahnsen, AW18, Copenhagen. The collections from Cecilie Bahnsen create an interesting tug on the subconscious. The techniques and patterns used for satin quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen, seem reminiscent of...
Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Haute Couture AW19. The Cutting Class.
01 Oct 2019
Bold Colour Combinations at Valentino Couture
Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. While it was a first look of sunflower yellow that set the scene, it was the way that vibrant colours were used in combination that...