Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris.

Valentino, AW15, Paris.

The Valentino collection for Autumn-Winter 2015 appeared to almost be split into two very different aesthetics. On the one hand there was clean cut minimalism in black and white, on the other hand there was lace and feather patterns in muted colours and tinged with gold.

The lace was often cleverly layered in strips that created directional patterns. These soft stripes guide the eye of the viewer around the body and also visually break the body up into different proportions by shifting waistlines higher or lower, or by making the upper body wider or narrower with sleeve-like extensions. These extensions were attached or appliquéd vertically into the main bodice panels and are sometimes referred to in pattern making terms as flanges.

Aside from the lace, another dominant textile motif was the use of a feathered pattern that was often created in soft, painterly gradients that developed towards the hems of the garments. These fabrics appear to have been cleverly designed with striking variations in colour so that the horizontal rows of feathers in stronger colours could be strategically placed across the body for the most flattering effects. These stronger lines of colour also prevent the print from becoming too wishy-washy and have the same dynamic effect as the mutliple colours used on the lace.

Another striking detail of the lace work was the way the lace was shaped over the décolletage, shoulders and upper back of some garments to form small stripes that radiate from the neckline. These specially shaped lace panels appear to have been created as separate front and back panels and then joined with a shoulder seam.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 1. Layers of lace in muted colours.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 2. Lace complemented by simple sleeve shape with dropped shoulder.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 3. Multiple colours used.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 4. Lace layered over wool and used as a sheer layer for the skirt.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 5. Lace strips used to direct eye around the body.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 6. Feather pattern appears to be used both as print and as a jacquard.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 7. Print repeat has strong lines of colour.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 8. Scalloped gold lace used for collar.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 9. Painterly feathers highlighted with gold.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 10. Ethereal lace appliqué.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 11. Lace sleeve extension or flange.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 12. Lace front details.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 13. Lace carefully shaped to create bodice top and cap sleeve.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 14. Pieces seamed along shoulder line.

Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris, Image 15. Embellishment on sheer black.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

21 Feb 2016
Pattern and Print at Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci, PF16. Historically, Pucci is a brand that is synonymous with print. By looking through the Pre-Fall 2016 collection by creative director Massimo Giorgetti, you can see some of...
04 Jan 2016
Thinking Like a Designer
In this final round-up post about the articles from 2015, we’ve gathered together some food for thought if you are about to become a fashion designer, or fashion design student...
29 Dec 2015
Finding the Balance for Casual Luxury
Part of what has been interesting about 2015 has been watching as designers continue to use construction details as a way to strike a balance in their collections. An underlying...