Junya Watanabe, AW11, Paris.
In the recent Junya Watanabe collection there was some great details in the leatherwork which are worthy of closer inspection. There is some incredible dart work in the leather that creates corset-like structures around the models waists, possibly reinforced with boning.
The clusters of darts are used in different sections of the garments as he approaches his leather jacket experiment from different angles, seeing different silhouettes evolve. At times the dart shaping is instead replaced by horizontal panelling, creating the rounded shape that sits above the hips of the models.
There are also times where the leather is teamed with black jersey to great effect, to get the best of both the drape of the jersey and the gloss of the black leather. Classic leather jacket hardware and styling appear throughout, as typical pocket flaps, zips, buckles, double welt pockets and press studs form the pivot point for his experimentations. These garments have all the features of a classic leather jacket and yet are completely unique.
Catwalk images from Vogue.co.ukĀ»