Life Drawing at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, AW15, London.

As a designer, the way that you actually draw or illustrate your designs can be highly influential in the actual designs that you create. For his Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Christopher Kane appears to have been highly aware of the way that drawing impacts his own garment designs and so the act of sketching, drawing and capturing the movement of the human figure became the basis for the concept behind the collection.

Apparently, the languid figures that form one of the most recognisable elements of the collection are actually drawn from a life drawing class that Kane organised for his studio team. Quoted on Vogue.co.uk, Kane describes the layered effect of the figures as “lover’s lace” as a sensual rather than sexual reference and as an expression of “togetherness”. These lace figures appear to be created by first layering coloured lace onto a sheer backing fabric, which would help to stabilise the movement of the lace. Then it appears as though the sketchy outlines may be created with black embroidery thread to create an overall outline of the figure as well as any added linework details. Once this embroidered linework is complete the outside of the figures appear to have been carefully trimmed, with the embroidered outline acting as a fray stopping device to keep the sheer fabrics from unravelling.

Aside from the“lover’s lace”, the silhouettes of the bodies also appeared on tailored garments as velvet silhouettes which appear to have been appliquéd cleanly into position. On a sheer dress, the sketchy linework was also used as glittering outlines which crisscrossed to form a haphazard pattern with glimpses of body parts.

The free flowing movement of actually putting pen to paper also seemed to be referenced through the folded bands which embellished a tailored jacket and a sheer top, as well as being echoed down into a pleated skirt. The sketchy zigzag then appeared to be straightened out to form a more graphic zigzag pattern which crossed coats and dresses.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 1. Velvet contrasts on tailoring layered with floral lace.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 2. Body outlines layered onto backing fabric.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 3. Body outlines tie into cut out shapes on sleeves.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 4. Sketchy outlines layered to create embellished detail on sheer fabric.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 5. Sheer layering with narrow seam finishes and hems.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 6. Folded band detail on jacket without lapel.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 7. Bands layered over sheer backing and echoed in pleated skirt.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 8. Clever tab closure with cutouts.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 9. Layered tab details.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 10. Vertical slits appear to be bound buttonholes.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 11. Zigzag design.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 12. Zigzag detail used as appliqué.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 13. Shot velvet given shaping with lurex band and safety buckle closure.

Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London, Image 14. Life drawing skteches used to create sheer windows with floral lace.