Christopher Kane, AW15, London.
As a designer, the way that you actually draw or illustrate your designs can be highly influential in the actual designs that you create. For his Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Christopher Kane appears to have been highly aware of the way that drawing impacts his own garment designs and so the act of sketching, drawing and capturing the movement of the human figure became the basis for the concept behind the collection.
Apparently, the languid figures that form one of the most recognisable elements of the collection are actually drawn from a life drawing class that Kane organised for his studio team. Quoted on Vogue.co.uk, Kane describes the layered effect of the figures as “lover’s lace” as a sensual rather than sexual reference and as an expression of “togetherness”. These lace figures appear to be created by first layering coloured lace onto a sheer backing fabric, which would help to stabilise the movement of the lace. Then it appears as though the sketchy outlines may be created with black embroidery thread to create an overall outline of the figure as well as any added linework details. Once this embroidered linework is complete the outside of the figures appear to have been carefully trimmed, with the embroidered outline acting as a fray stopping device to keep the sheer fabrics from unravelling.
Aside from the“lover’s lace”, the silhouettes of the bodies also appeared on tailored garments as velvet silhouettes which appear to have been appliquéd cleanly into position. On a sheer dress, the sketchy linework was also used as glittering outlines which crisscrossed to form a haphazard pattern with glimpses of body parts.
The free flowing movement of actually putting pen to paper also seemed to be referenced through the folded bands which embellished a tailored jacket and a sheer top, as well as being echoed down into a pleated skirt. The sketchy zigzag then appeared to be straightened out to form a more graphic zigzag pattern which crossed coats and dresses.
Images from Vogue.co.uk»