Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy

Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York.

Givenchy, SS16, New York.

The Givenchy Spring-Summer 2016 collection combined the silky sensuality of lingerie with the strictness of tailoring topped off with lashings of embellishment.

The lingerie references came through with laces, soft tulles and embroidery with touches of lingerie hardware such as bra strap adjusters. Many pieces of lingerie also feature soft angular panelling to cup the curves of the body, and some of the garments in the collection appeared to build from these types of panel lines, expanding into unusual cuts, fullness and monochrome spliced panels. The silky, lacy pieces in the collection also often used an awareness of gravity in different ways and this carried through to the tailored pieces. Fabrics were draped and wrapped around the body, hanging from straps or gathered into ruched details to create layers of lace and embroidery. These pieces were then layered with deconstructed jackets that sat somewhere between a tuxedo and a dressing gown, cut to split open and fall off the shoulders of the models.

The classically tailored garments in the collection included traditional details such as pick stitched shawl lapels and beautifully cut vests. Metallic and satin contrasts were also used to add shine to some of the collars, pocket welts and patch pockets of the men’s pieces. Touches of lacy softness were brought to one look with a white on white shirt and tie while a laser-cut leather in black on black also seemed to be used to create a reverse lace design on a tie.

For the gowns of the collection the use of fabric layering appeared to shrink in scale but intensify in quantity, with tiny sheer circles creating gradients of embellishment that blended from opaque to transparent, spreading like a growth over the models faces and clothes. The use of embellishment in the styling of the models appeared to have an almost ritualistic, mask-like connotation steering the dresses clear of just being red carpet fodder. Less celebrity, more high priestess.

Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 1. Fabric cut away behind lace hem.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 2. Different fabric knotted and twisted together.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 3. Appears to be gathered with a casing.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 4. Straps seem to support draped sections.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 5. Lace sleeve paired with sports mesh.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 6. Darts on outside of fabric control direction of drape.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 7. Darts on outside of fabric control direction of drape.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 8. Bound with bias binding
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 9. Satin pocket.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 10. Appears to be lasercut leather to create lace-like effect.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 11. Swan motif in 3D appliqué.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 12. Plastic zipper tape as trim.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 13. Interesting darts and panel lines.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 14.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 15. Dotted grid of rhinestones.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 16.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 17. Layers of tiny sheer circles.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 18. Layers of tiny sheer circles.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 19.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 20. Skins appear to be eased and shaped to the body.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 21.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 22. Fringing edges around embroidery.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 23. Shiny contrasts on collars and pockets.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 24. Lace shirt and tie.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 25. Vest lapel seamed into shoulder seam.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 26. Tucked shirt front over lace.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 27. Hem panel splits and hangs away.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 28. Suspended pearls.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 29. Panels of sheer black, pickstitched tuxedo lapels.
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York, Image 30. Bra strap adjusters, pick stitched lapels.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

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