Bias Binding at Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a candy pink dress devoted entirely to bias binding. The overall shape of the dress had been broken down into small...
08 Oct 2019
Cecilie Bahnsen, AW18, Copenhagen. The collections from Cecilie Bahnsen create an interesting tug on the subconscious. The techniques and patterns used for satin quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen, seem reminiscent of old-fashioned yet decadent bed covers, except that they are gathered into cloud-like silhouettes. The textures, colours, and styling also all...
03 Oct 2019
i-am-chen, AW19. Zhi Chen describes herself on the i-am-chen website» as a technician rather than a fashion designer, explaining how she studies the workings of machines on the factory floor to exploit their full capabilities in her engineered knitwear. The results are vibrant asymmetrical pieces that play with volume and...
01 Oct 2019
Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. While it was a first look of sunflower yellow that set the scene, it was the way that vibrant colours were used in combination that made the Valentino Haute Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2019 particularly delicious. The collection was peppered with citrus shades, such as...
26 Sep 2019
Calvin Klein pocket bags. Calvin Klein, 205W39NYC (AW18), New York. There was an interesting pocket detail at the Calvin Klein show for Autumn-Winter 2018 that featured a bulky pocket bag on the outside of the garment. In essence, this shape looks like it would be roughly like an oval at...
24 Sep 2019
Proenza Schouler, SS20, New York. It's one of those details that you just might not really think about until you notice it, but a crisply squared-off hem on a tailored jacket is a clean detail when applied to either menswear or womenswear. Tailored jacket hems are one of the many...
19 Sep 2019
Jacquemus, AW19, 'La chemise Loya' in dark beige and light blue. In the second article, so far, of garments that have made it from catwalk to retail let's take a look at the details on a Jacquemus raw silk shirt aka 'La chemise Loya' from Autumn-Winter 2019. Since this is...
17 Sep 2019
Stine Goya, Pre Fall 2019. There are a whole host of designers who create dresses, blouses and trousers in a variety of prints and colours. The fact that many of these styles feel approachable and wearable, gives them an easy-breezy commercial quality that can easily hide how difficult they are...
12 Sep 2019
Nina Ricci, SS20. You can see it in the Botter lookbooks, but it is especially evident in the photographs of Nina Ricci Spring 2020. There is a certain sense of proportion, fabrication and silhouette in the work of creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh that has echoes of 1950s...
10 Sep 2019
Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Weave as seen on The Pouch shown here in Topazio. The woven design on The Pouch bag from Bottega Veneta is slightly more complex than first meets the eye. What looks like a simple woven pattern of separate strips, is created using slits in an underlayer to...
05 Sep 2019
Rory shirt from Rejina Pyo, Pre Fall 2019. With the churn of imagery for the fashion seasons, it can be easy for the little details of the more understated garments to slip by. So often we see catwalk and lookbook images of new collections in the heat of the moment...
01 Sep 2019
Image of the Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams Exhibition. Image courtesy of the V&A © Adrien Dirand 2019. For those lucky enough to have tickets (or able to snag some on the day), this is the final weekend in the V&A's exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. This expansive exhibition paid...
