Burberry Trench Coat Details, AW19. When designers take over a role as creative director of an established fashion house they are often faced with the decision of how much of the archive to take on board, and when to make a clean start on their own. For some designers though,...
19 Nov 2019
Houga, AW19. Moe Ishida, the designer behind Tokyo-based brand Houga, has a knack for creating laid-back party dresses that are oversized, asymmetrical and spliced through with ruffles, gathers and pleats. The fact that they are simply-styled and often cut in a single colour or pattern, means that a closer look...
14 Nov 2019
Christopher Kane, AW19, London. Christopher Kane is a designer who knows how to flesh out a collection in the old school way - taking an idea or theme as a jumping-off point and iterating the idea out to the end of each tangent until new and surprising results emerge. From...
05 Nov 2019
Toile of garment, Christian Dior by John Galliano, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2007. One of the most amazing rooms in the V&A Exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was the toile room, a vast room filled with the ghostly prototypes of couture seasons. Being a minimalist at heart, there is something...
29 Oct 2019
Prada, AW1999. Sometimes you see an image pop up and even though it's from a collection that's 20 years old, you feel like the garment could just as easily have been created for a new collection. Such was the case when an image of zip details from Prada AW1999 appeared....
22 Oct 2019
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga, AW19. Sometimes it seems like a bit of a shame that there was so much hype surrounding the work of Demna Gvasalia at Vetements and Balenciaga. Some of the designs that came off as a bit gimmicky have tended to obscure the serious work on silhouette...
17 Oct 2019
Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta, 'Baggy Jean Chemtrail' and 'Wide Leg Jean Tri Stacked' from the AW19 collection. There are some collections that are nicely layered with different colours and textures, but the layering on the catwalk can sometimes hide exactly what's going on with all the fabrics and details....
15 Oct 2019
Sies Marjan Jacket Details, AW19. There were some interesting details on a style called the 'Haru Twill Waisted Jacket' from the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection from Sies Marjan. The jacket has a softly shaped feel, due to the gently nipped waist and the slight arc to the sleeves. The twill fabric...
10 Oct 2019
Bias Binding at Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a candy pink dress devoted entirely to bias binding. The overall shape of the dress had been broken down into small...
08 Oct 2019
Cecilie Bahnsen, AW18, Copenhagen. The collections from Cecilie Bahnsen create an interesting tug on the subconscious. The techniques and patterns used for satin quilting at Cecilie Bahnsen, seem reminiscent of old-fashioned yet decadent bed covers, except that they are gathered into cloud-like silhouettes. The textures, colours, and styling also all...
03 Oct 2019
i-am-chen, AW19. Zhi Chen describes herself on the i-am-chen website» as a technician rather than a fashion designer, explaining how she studies the workings of machines on the factory floor to exploit their full capabilities in her engineered knitwear. The results are vibrant asymmetrical pieces that play with volume and...
01 Oct 2019
Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. While it was a first look of sunflower yellow that set the scene, it was the way that vibrant colours were used in combination that made the Valentino Haute Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2019 particularly delicious. The collection was peppered with citrus shades, such as...
