04 May 2011
Padded Minimalism by Tze Goh

Tze Goh, AW10, London. When it comes to design, simplicity can often breed perfectionism by means of pure necessity. The more minimal and sculptural a design becomes, the less room there is for error or anywhere to hide any construction problems. In the case of designer Tze Goh, it is...

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03 May 2011
Fabrics and Textiles: Lace

Prada, AW08, Lookbook. There are certain areas of fashion design that are often summarised together under an umbrella term, but if you take the time and have the interest you will realise that some of these areas open up into many little fragmented pockets of information. This seems to especially...

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02 May 2011
Bias Binding at Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll, SS11, London. There are many ways that fabric edges can be finished so that they do not fray, and bias binding is one of the most popular choices for fine fabrics.

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28 Apr 2011
Complex Patterns: Aitor Throup

Aitor Throup, 2007. Designer Aitor Throup has a sense of presentation for his garments which seems to mimic the way that a pattern makers mind visualises patterns. His work, which uses a series of complex panels to create forms, is often presented alongside the panels that make up the same...

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27 Apr 2011
Dye to Match Buttons, Zips and Threads

Jil Sander, SS11, Milan. Buttons from Mrecht. While you’re enjoying the myriad of colours available for the Spring-Summer 2011 collections, spare a thought for the production teams who are responsible for co-ordinating every last colour matched detail.

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26 Apr 2011
Stylised and Outlined at Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum, AW11, London. There was a certain naive, cartoon-like quality to the Autumn-Winter 2011 Burberry Prorsum collection. On the most superficial level this was due to the dalmatian spot hats and fur details, but on further inspection the feeling of the collection being very stylised was a result of...

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22 Apr 2011
Balenciaga Hats from the 1960s

The Metropolitan Museum of Art online collection houses such hidden gems as these amazing Balenciaga hats from the 1960s. Interestingly the majority of these particular hats seem to all have been donated to the collection by one person, Janet A. Sloane.

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21 Apr 2011
Chanel Fabric Palettes

Chanel Fabric Swatches, Spring-Summer 2011. Chanel Fabric Swatches, AW11. When designers are pulling a collection together, there is much visualisation which has to occur as they imagine sketches paired with fabric swatches and try to make a mental picture of each garment, and how that garment will fit within an entire...

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20 Apr 2011
Twists and Diagonals at Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler, AW11, New York. There are many different design elements at play in the Autumn-Winter 2011 collection from Proenza Schouler. There are geometric patterns, unusual colours, velvets, complicated cut outs, detailed accessories, and complex knitwear pieces.

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19 Apr 2011
Fundamentals of Pattern Making: Basic Facings

Hussein Chalayan, AW11, Video Still. The construction which occurs on the inside of garments is just as important as the design of the outside, for a number of reasons. A garment which has been nicely lined or neatly finished on the inside will wear better over time, it will also...

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18 Apr 2011
Rough Luxury at Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta, AW11, Milan. We often think of luxury high end garments as being made of fine fabrics which have been beautifully cut and finished with a certain sense of finesse and polish. This can be offset at times by more rough and ready techniques which act to make the...

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15 Apr 2011
Intricate Details at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, AW11, Paris. There were some beautifully considered details in the Autumn-Winter 2011 collection from Balenciaga that really gave the collection depth. There were some small pattern and garment construction details that were developed here that helped to make the garments just that much more interesting, rather than using standard...

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