22 Feb 2011
Pocket Bags at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, AW11, London. Pocket bags are simply the pieces of fabric that form the inside section of pockets. They are normally hidden, discreet, utilitarian and completely forgettable. Unless of course, you are Christopher Kane and an opaque pocket bag could get in the way of your liquid vision.

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22 Feb 2011
Crochet for Holland and Kane

House of Holland, AW11, London. The use of crochet in both the recent House of Holland and the collection by Christopher Kane makes a perfect example of just how differently two designers can use one reference.

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21 Feb 2011
Fundamentals of Sewing: Seams

Above are the two most commonly used types of seams in contemporary sewing, closed and open seams and they are essentially sewn in the same way but are named differently depending on how the seam allowance is dealt with.

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20 Feb 2011
Pattern Making Fundamentals: Seam Allowance

When taken back to it’s most basic level, sewing is the means by which we have clothed ourselves for thousands of years. According to wikipedia the act of sewing dates back to the stone age, where even before there was woven fabric humans would sew together fur and skin using...

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Pattern Making Tool Box: Tracing Wheel on The Cutting Class. Needle point tracing wheel.
18 Feb 2011
Pattern Tool Box: Tracing Wheel

Image of a needle point tracing wheel from MacCulloch & Wallis» Tracing wheels usually have a blunt edge, a serrated edge or comes in a needle point style wheel on a wooden or plastic handle. They are used for transferring markings between patterns, or between patterns and fabric. The example...

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17 Feb 2011
American Craftsmanship

Proenza Schouler, AW11. There have been times in the past where a theme of hand crafts running through the collections can be a little too dowdy and kitsch. This time around at the New York Autumn/Winter 2011 shows, the American craftsmanship coming through is focused and comes in sophisticated colour...

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16 Feb 2011
Internal Structure at Thom Browne

Thom Browne, AW11, New York. To create the off-the-body silhouettes seen in Thom Browne’s show you need to have a strong understanding of internal structure. The internal structure of the garment is everything that goes on between the outer fabric and the lining and involves a number of different elements...

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15 Feb 2011
Thakoons Press Studs

Thakoon, AW11. It was a nice touch at Thakoon’s AW11 collection to balance out the time intensive tailoring and beautifully draped silhouettes with the simplicity of streetwear closures such as zips, drawstrings and press studs.

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14 Feb 2011
Screen Printing at Libertine

Libertine, AW11. Altering a manufactured fabric is one of the most straight forward ways to create designs that are uniquely your own. Whether the fabric is embroidered, laser cut, digitally printed, embellished, dyed, painted or frayed you can take a fabric and make sure that it is unique to your...

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A Basic Explanation of Grain Lines
11 Feb 2011
A Basic Explanation of Grain Lines

Grain lines are a generally unnoticed aspect of the garment, that is until they are either used in the wrong way and cause a fit problem or used in interesting ways to mould the fabric to the body. Sometimes they can also be used to turn a print onto a...

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10 Feb 2011
Minimal Fabric Interference at Céline

Céline, SS11, Paris. Fashion, as we know, is always evolving in cycles. Sometimes we want clothes fitted, sometimes we want them loose, dark colours will often follow light colours and extensive embellishment can sometimes be followed by cleaner design lines.

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09 Feb 2011
Pattern Making Fundamentals: Understanding Darts

Designer Akira Isogawa in his studio, image from NLA. Whenever you see photographs of designers in their studios you are bound to see rolls of fabric, scissors, pins, sketches… and often these curious looking racks of brown cardboard (to the right of the image above). These are the designers patterns,...

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