Fabric Manipulations at Chanel. Chanel, AW15, Paris.
13 Aug 2015
Fabric Manipulations at Chanel

Chanel, AW15, Paris. Mixed among the traditional tweeds and bouclés of the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2015 collection were a number of fabric manipulations that added volume and texture to the garments.

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Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15.
07 Aug 2015
Spotlight Details at Anrealage

Anrealage, AW15, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Anrealage revolved around the way that a spot of light hits objects in darkness, with pitch black garments illuminated by spots of pure white. This basic concept was then borne out through a range of different iterations - white light as a...

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Pattern Shaping at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW15, Paris.
30 Jul 2015
Pattern Shaping at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, AW15, Paris. Some time ago, we discussed some of the different ways you can position fabric on the body to create different sleeve shapes. In particular, there are many different design possibilities that open up to you when you give up on the typical bodice / sleeve arrangement and...

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Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan.
24 Jul 2015
Spongy Synthetics at Prada

Prada, AW15, Milan. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Miuccia Prada played with cartoonish silhouettes in a spongy synthetic, which looked like a neoprene material but was actually a double-faced jersey. This material appeared to be the pivot point for experiments with how we construct “beauty”, whether by natural or artificial...

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Recycled Yarns 3D Weaving Moa Hallgren
17 Jul 2015
Recycled Yarns & 3D Weaving by Moa Hallgren

Weaving from the Texture collection by Moa Hallgren, 2015.As part of an interesting cultural exchange between Berlin and Bangladesh, Moa Hallgren has created a range of textiles that are woven from by-products of the textile industry. Aside from taking a closer look at the handwoven textiles created for the Texture...

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Balancing Frames and Canvas at Viktor & Rolf | The Cutting Class. Viktor & Rolf, Couture, AW15, Paris.
09 Jul 2015
Balancing Frames and Canvas at Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf, Couture, AW15, Paris.In a show that saw artworks exploding off the wall to form couture gowns, Viktor and Rolf created garments that exaggerated the balancing acts that lie at the heart of all clothing. On everyday clothing, common pattern shapes are regurgitated so that designers don’t have...

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Multicoloured Details from Ports 1961 | The Cutting Class. Ports 1961, RST16, New York.
02 Jul 2015
Multicoloured Details from Ports 1961

Ports 1961, RST16, New York.The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection from Ports 1961 was filled with pops of vivid colour set against a neutral canvas of whites and creams. Different trims and embellishments were used across the garments to foreground parts of the garments and to give the garments texture.

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Embossed Textiles by Tiffany Loy | The Cutting Class.
24 Jun 2015
Embossed Textiles by Tiffany Loy

Textiles and “The Emboss Machine” created by Tiffany Loy 2012-2015. One of the areas where industrial design and fashion design often crossover with amazing consequences is in textile design; a medium where sculptural and textural experiments can sometimes take place more creatively in the time before the textiles are assigned...

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Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris.
17 Jun 2015
Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline

Céline, AW15, Paris.Bet you never think of topstitching as nonchalant, right? What about pattern making, can you cut a dart like you just don’t care? This is the bizarre skill that is needed to be a fashion designer; can you convey a certain mood for a collection not just through...

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Soft Structure at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, RST16.
13 Jun 2015
Soft Structure at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, RST16. The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection at Balenciaga was filled with stripes, splits, sheer panels and details that created soft structure. At times, waistline tucks blended into wavy peplum hems that appeared as though they may have been shaped with crinoline. This same soft, wavy structure was also used around...

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Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris.
04 Jun 2015
Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya

noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris.It comes as no surprise that someone who used to be a pattern cutter at Comme des Garçons would produce intricately designed garments, however, based on the collection shown for Autumn-Winter 2015, it is also clear that Kei Ninomiya has a particular flair for ingenious modular...

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Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris.
23 May 2015
Geometric Monochrome at Valentino

Valentino, AW15, Paris.Aside from the lacier side of the Valentino show for Autumn-Winter 2015, there was a range of garments presented with minimal monochrome details and intricate geometric fabrics edged with beads and gold stitching.

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