Constructing Roses at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW15, Paris.
28 Apr 2015
Constructing Roses at Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen, AW15, Paris.The rose is a motif that often features in fashion design, but it was specifically the degradation of the rose that was used in the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Alexander McQueen. The idea of petals becoming slowly more bruised and ragged was played out in the fabrics...

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Bust Shaping with Panel Lines at Dior | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, SS15, Haute Couture, Paris.
22 Apr 2015
Bust Shaping with Panel Lines at Dior

Christian Dior, SS15, Haute Couture, Paris. In discussing some of the details from the Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2015 collection», we began to discuss how moving the positions of panel lines can affect your ability as a pattern maker to fit the fabric to the body. As it happens the Christian Dior...

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Translating Designs from Sketches: Gravity and Proportion | The Cutting Class. Cristóbal Balenciaga images from the 1950s and 1960s showing sketches and final garments.
14 Apr 2015
Translating Designs from Sketches: Gravity & Proportion

Cristóbal Balenciaga images from the 1950s and 1960s showing sketches and final garments.Beautiful fashion sketches are often shown as part of the romanticised process of designing a garment, but while it can be difficult to illustrate an idea on paper, it can be harder still to turn that sketch into...

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Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London.
07 Apr 2015
Life Drawing at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, AW15, London.As a designer, the way that you actually draw or illustrate your designs can be highly influential in the actual designs that you create. For his Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Christopher Kane appears to have been highly aware of the way that drawing impacts his own garment designs...

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Ruffles and Gathering at Simone Rocha | The Cutting Class. Simone Rocha, AW15, London.
02 Apr 2015
Ruffles and Gathering at Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha, AW15, London.There are certain construction details that are complementary to each other, echoing each other stylistically to reinforce an idea. One such pairing is that of gathers and ruffles; two techniques which are essentially based on the same process but end up with different names when played out...

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Clashing Patterns and Collar Details at Miu Miu | The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW15, Paris.
27 Mar 2015
Clashing Patterns and Collar Details at Miu Miu

Miu Miu, AW15, Paris.With tweeds, stripes, animal skins and pseudo animal prints, the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Miu Miu was filled with clashing fabric patterns. It is through a closer look at the details that you can begin to see where the clash is intentional and where potentially messy details...

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Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya Watanabe | The Cutting Class. Junya Watanabe, AW15, Paris.
18 Mar 2015
Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe, AW15, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Junya Watanabe was filled with repetitive structures created with a mathematical sense of precision. While the shapes hinted at a rigorous pattern making process, the garments themselves often had a softness and a sense of bouncy movement.

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Contrast Stitching at Haider Ackermann | The Cutting Class. Haider Ackermann, AW15, Paris.
10 Mar 2015
Contrast Stitching at Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann, AW15, Paris.Many of the garments from the Haider Ackermann Autumn-Winter 2015 show used contrast stitching to highlight the edges of seams and waistbands. This stitching had a sketchy, haphazard feel, with crisscrossing stitches created in irregular lengths. These stitches had a softening effect when used on garments that...

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Bar Tacks and Blocky Panels at Fendi | The Cutting Class. Fendi, AW15, Milan.
03 Mar 2015
Bar Tacks and Blocky Panels at Fendi

Fendi, AW15, Milan. Although bar tacks are mostly used to reinforce sections of a garment, they can also be used to secure fabric in just a couple of places. In the Fendi Autumn-Winter 2015 collection bar tacks were used to hold blocky leather panels in position so that they hung...

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Pattern Cutting Details from Delpozo | The Cutting Class. Delpozo, AW15, New York.
24 Feb 2015
Pattern Cutting Details from Delpozo

Delpozo, AW15, New York.The Delpozo collections often use clever pattern cutting details to create sculptural details or to support the silhouettes of the garments. In the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection some of the pattern making details worth noticing include sleeves that grow from panels or out of darts, and a sleeve...

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Beaded Trim at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, AW15, New York.
18 Feb 2015
Beaded Trim at Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang, AW15, New York. There are lots of attachments for domestic sewing machines that can help you create clever effects, but often these attachments are dismissed because of the less than inspiring examples used to show what they are capable of. In the Alexander Wang Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, many...

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Ribboned Pleats at Dior Haute Couture | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, SS15, Paris.
10 Feb 2015
Ribboned Pleats at Dior Haute Couture

Christian Dior, Haute Couture, SS15, Paris. From a construction point of view, there are a number of beautiful and clever details that have been used for the Spring-Summer 2015 haute couture collection at Christian Dior. One of the most striking details is one of the textile embellishments where rows of...

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