10 Dec 2015
Flounces and Ruffles

Noir Kei Ninomiya, SS16, Paris. At times, words are used interchangeably to describe certain fabric details. In a fashion journalism context this is generally ok because if someone talks about the “ruffled” or “frilly” dress in the collection then it’s usually pretty clear which one they mean. When a designer...

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30 Nov 2015
Rethinking Seams at Noir Kei Ninomiya

Noir Kei Ninomiya, SS16, Paris. For many designers, the basic construction elements of a garment are quite simple - you take 2D pieces of fabric and join them together, usually by sewing seams, to create a 3D object. In the collections created by Kei Ninomiya however, it seems that even...

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21 Nov 2015
Wearable Architecture at DZHUS

DZHUS, “Totalitarium”, AW15, Kiev.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection for DZHUS was filled with geometric details that used tucks and pleating to fold fabric around the body. Designer Irina Dzhus spoke to us about her pattern making process for the collection and discussed how fabric choice can make the difference between a...

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16 Nov 2015
Fractured Layers at Off‑White

Off-White, SS16, Paris. The Off-White collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was filled with deconstructed finishes and patchworked denim set against crisp white t-shirts and structured pleating.

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Lace Engineering at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, SS16, Paris.
09 Nov 2015
Lace Engineering at Céline

Céline, SS16, Paris. There are certain garments where the feats of construction at work are well-known, such as the layers of canvas and horsehair used to mould fabric for tailored jackets. Other garments seem easier or less engineered simply because they are more floaty and lightweight, but of course, this...

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Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs | The Cutting Class. Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York.
29 Oct 2015
Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York. In a palette of red, white and blue the Marc Jacobs collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was thick with Americana references and slathered with glittering stars and stripes. Within this relatively narrow concept and colour palette, the garments showed some incredible uses of embellishment and spliced...

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Pure Construction at Christian Dior | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, SS16, Paris.
25 Oct 2015
Pure Construction at Christian Dior

Christian Dior, SS16, Paris. After the recent news that Raf Simons would no longer be the artistic director at Dior (for women’s RTW, Haute Couture and accessories), it seemed a fitting time to celebrate the fineness of the construction details in his last collection for Spring-Summer 2016. After all, it’s...

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Graphic Movement at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, SS16, London.
16 Oct 2015
Graphic Movement at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, SS16, London.As ever, the catwalk show for Spring-Summer 2016 showed the latest results from the Christopher Kane laboratory. In many ways, this collection seemed to combine the colours and fabrications which Kane has used in the past with the sweeping sense of movement from last season’s collection which...

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Coordinated Chaos at Dries Van Noten | The Cutting Class. Dries Van Noten, SS16, Paris.
09 Oct 2015
Coordinated Chaos at Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten, SS16, Paris.A few years ago now we did an article that asked How Many Fabrics in the Dries Van Noten Show? and laid out the collection as swatches. Since the Dries Van Noten show for Spring-Summer 2016 was again filled with an amazing range of different prints,...

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Is it ever ok to have bad finishes? The Cutting Class. Yeezy, SS16, New York.
29 Sep 2015
Is it ever ok to have bad finishes?

Yeezy, SS16, New York.While looking at the Yeezy collection for Spring-Summer 2016 with puckered seams and wavy zippers, a question began to form about how to evaluate the construction techniques of a collection. Can it ever support a designer’s concept to have construction details that are technically wrong?

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Shattered, Pleated Appliqué at Thom Browne | The Cutting Class. Thom Browne, SS16, New York.
25 Sep 2015
Shattered, Pleated Appliqué at Thom Browne

Thom Browne, SS16, New York.The layered suiting ensembles at Thom Browne for Spring-Summer 2016 were embellished with carefully worked appliqué. The motifs were cut in a variety of fabrics and subtle pastel tones and were often spliced into fragments across front closures and shattered across pleated skirts.

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Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, SS16, New York.
18 Sep 2015
Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy

Givenchy, SS16, New York.The Givenchy Spring-Summer 2016 collection combined the silky sensuality of lingerie with the strictness of tailoring topped off with lashings of embellishment.

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