Gucci, AW15, Milan. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Gucci had a more subtle atmosphere, a more come-as-you-are version of “fashion” with pieces layered together in a way that felt lived-in. In particular it was interesting to see the way that this undone quality was used across the tailored pieces with...
04 Sep 2015
Kenzo, AW15, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Kenzo included some interesting pattern cutting details to create draped details and subtle folds of fullness. At times, sportswear colours and satin fabrications were contrasted with a more historical technique, with cartridge pleats used on sleeve heads and dropped waists.
28 Aug 2015
Louis Vuitton, AW15, Paris. Nicolas Ghesquière has a knack for creating collections that look very wearable but that are still filled with quietly innovative construction details and carefully developed fabrics. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Louis Vuitton these elements were combined together in unusual ways to create garments and...
21 Aug 2015
Christian Dior, AW15, Haute Couture, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Christian Dior was filled with bold, immediate design elements such as contrast sleeves and asymmetric outerwear, but there were also quieter and more subtle details with carefully placed darts, pleats and feathers.
13 Aug 2015
Chanel, AW15, Paris. Mixed among the traditional tweeds and bouclés of the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2015 collection were a number of fabric manipulations that added volume and texture to the garments.
07 Aug 2015
Anrealage, AW15, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Anrealage revolved around the way that a spot of light hits objects in darkness, with pitch black garments illuminated by spots of pure white. This basic concept was then borne out through a range of different iterations - white light as a...
30 Jul 2015
Balenciaga, AW15, Paris. Some time ago, we discussed some of the different ways you can position fabric on the body to create different sleeve shapes. In particular, there are many different design possibilities that open up to you when you give up on the typical bodice / sleeve arrangement and...
24 Jul 2015
Prada, AW15, Milan. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Miuccia Prada played with cartoonish silhouettes in a spongy synthetic, which looked like a neoprene material but was actually a double-faced jersey. This material appeared to be the pivot point for experiments with how we construct “beauty”, whether by natural or artificial...
17 Jul 2015
Weaving from the Texture collection by Moa Hallgren, 2015.As part of an interesting cultural exchange between Berlin and Bangladesh, Moa Hallgren has created a range of textiles that are woven from by-products of the textile industry. Aside from taking a closer look at the handwoven textiles created for the Texture...
09 Jul 2015
Viktor & Rolf, Couture, AW15, Paris.In a show that saw artworks exploding off the wall to form couture gowns, Viktor and Rolf created garments that exaggerated the balancing acts that lie at the heart of all clothing. On everyday clothing, common pattern shapes are regurgitated so that designers don’t have...
02 Jul 2015
Ports 1961, RST16, New York.The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection from Ports 1961 was filled with pops of vivid colour set against a neutral canvas of whites and creams. Different trims and embellishments were used across the garments to foreground parts of the garments and to give the garments texture.
24 Jun 2015
Textiles and “The Emboss Machine” created by Tiffany Loy 2012-2015. One of the areas where industrial design and fashion design often crossover with amazing consequences is in textile design; a medium where sculptural and textural experiments can sometimes take place more creatively in the time before the textiles are assigned...
