Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW15, Paris.
17 Jun 2015
Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline

Céline, AW15, Paris.Bet you never think of topstitching as nonchalant, right? What about pattern making, can you cut a dart like you just don’t care? This is the bizarre skill that is needed to be a fashion designer; can you convey a certain mood for a collection not just through...

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Soft Structure at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, RST16.
13 Jun 2015
Soft Structure at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, RST16. The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection at Balenciaga was filled with stripes, splits, sheer panels and details that created soft structure. At times, waistline tucks blended into wavy peplum hems that appeared as though they may have been shaped with crinoline. This same soft, wavy structure was also used around...

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Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris.
04 Jun 2015
Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya

noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris. It comes as no surprise that someone who used to be a pattern cutter at Comme des Garçons would produce intricately designed garments, however, based on the collection shown for Autumn-Winter 2015, it is also clear that Kei Ninomiya has a particular flair for ingenious...

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Geometric Monochrome at Valentino |The Cutting Class. Valentino, AW15, Paris.
23 May 2015
Geometric Monochrome at Valentino

Valentino, AW15, Paris. Aside from the lacier side» of the Valentino show for Autumn-Winter 2015, there was a range of garments presented with minimal monochrome details and intricate geometric fabrics edged with beads and gold stitching.

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Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino. Valentino, AW15, Paris.
19 May 2015
Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino

Valentino, AW15, Paris.The Valentino collection for Autumn-Winter 2015 appeared to almost be split into two very different aesthetics. On the one hand there was clean cut minimalism in black and white, on the other hand there was lace and feather patterns in muted colours and tinged with gold.

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Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris.
12 May 2015
Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover

Undercover, AW15, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Undercover was filled with sharp construction details and shattered design lines which were rounded out by rich colours, painted fabrics and voluminous drapes of velvet, satin and jersey. Soft and luxurious fabrics were often layered, deconstructed and then rejoined to create spliced details...

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Slits and Peeling Layers at Proenza Schouler | The Cutting Class. Proenza Schouler, AW15, New York.
05 May 2015
Slits and Peeling Layers at Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler, AW15, New York.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Proenza Schouler featured experimentation with fabrics and trims to create layers of texture within the garments. Two main experiments with volume were also at play from a pattern cutting perspective; at times the fabric was spliced and slit open, while at...

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Constructing Roses at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW15, Paris.
28 Apr 2015
Constructing Roses at Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen, AW15, Paris.The rose is a motif that often features in fashion design, but it was specifically the degradation of the rose that was used in the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Alexander McQueen. The idea of petals becoming slowly more bruised and ragged was played out in the fabrics...

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Bust Shaping with Panel Lines at Dior | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, SS15, Haute Couture, Paris.
22 Apr 2015
Bust Shaping with Panel Lines at Dior

Christian Dior, SS15, Haute Couture, Paris. In discussing some of the details from the Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2015 collection», we began to discuss how moving the positions of panel lines can affect your ability as a pattern maker to fit the fabric to the body. As it happens the Christian Dior...

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Translating Designs from Sketches: Gravity and Proportion | The Cutting Class. Cristóbal Balenciaga images from the 1950s and 1960s showing sketches and final garments.
14 Apr 2015
Translating Designs from Sketches: Gravity & Proportion

Cristóbal Balenciaga images from the 1950s and 1960s showing sketches and final garments.Beautiful fashion sketches are often shown as part of the romanticised process of designing a garment, but while it can be difficult to illustrate an idea on paper, it can be harder still to turn that sketch into...

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Life Drawing at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW15, London.
07 Apr 2015
Life Drawing at Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane, AW15, London.As a designer, the way that you actually draw or illustrate your designs can be highly influential in the actual designs that you create. For his Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Christopher Kane appears to have been highly aware of the way that drawing impacts his own garment designs...

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Ruffles and Gathering at Simone Rocha | The Cutting Class. Simone Rocha, AW15, London.
02 Apr 2015
Ruffles and Gathering at Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha, AW15, London.There are certain construction details that are complementary to each other, echoing each other stylistically to reinforce an idea. One such pairing is that of gathers and ruffles; two techniques which are essentially based on the same process but end up with different names when played out...

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