Clashing Patterns and Collar Details at Miu Miu | The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW15, Paris.
27 Mar 2015
Clashing Patterns and Collar Details at Miu Miu

Miu Miu, AW15, Paris.With tweeds, stripes, animal skins and pseudo animal prints, the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Miu Miu was filled with clashing fabric patterns. It is through a closer look at the details that you can begin to see where the clash is intentional and where potentially messy details...

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Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya Watanabe | The Cutting Class. Junya Watanabe, AW15, Paris.
18 Mar 2015
Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe, AW15, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Junya Watanabe was filled with repetitive structures created with a mathematical sense of precision. While the shapes hinted at a rigorous pattern making process, the garments themselves often had a softness and a sense of bouncy movement.

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Contrast Stitching at Haider Ackermann | The Cutting Class. Haider Ackermann, AW15, Paris.
10 Mar 2015
Contrast Stitching at Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann, AW15, Paris.Many of the garments from the Haider Ackermann Autumn-Winter 2015 show used contrast stitching to highlight the edges of seams and waistbands. This stitching had a sketchy, haphazard feel, with crisscrossing stitches created in irregular lengths. These stitches had a softening effect when used on garments that...

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Bar Tacks and Blocky Panels at Fendi | The Cutting Class. Fendi, AW15, Milan.
03 Mar 2015
Bar Tacks and Blocky Panels at Fendi

Fendi, AW15, Milan. Although bar tacks are mostly used to reinforce sections of a garment, they can also be used to secure fabric in just a couple of places. In the Fendi Autumn-Winter 2015 collection bar tacks were used to hold blocky leather panels in position so that they hung...

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Pattern Cutting Details from Delpozo | The Cutting Class. Delpozo, AW15, New York.
24 Feb 2015
Pattern Cutting Details from Delpozo

Delpozo, AW15, New York.The Delpozo collections often use clever pattern cutting details to create sculptural details or to support the silhouettes of the garments. In the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection some of the pattern making details worth noticing include sleeves that grow from panels or out of darts, and a sleeve...

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Beaded Trim at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, AW15, New York.
18 Feb 2015
Beaded Trim at Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang, AW15, New York. There are lots of attachments for domestic sewing machines that can help you create clever effects, but often these attachments are dismissed because of the less than inspiring examples used to show what they are capable of. In the Alexander Wang Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, many...

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Ribboned Pleats at Dior Haute Couture | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, SS15, Paris.
10 Feb 2015
Ribboned Pleats at Dior Haute Couture

Christian Dior, Haute Couture, SS15, Paris. From a construction point of view, there are a number of beautiful and clever details that have been used for the Spring-Summer 2015 haute couture collection at Christian Dior. One of the most striking details is one of the textile embellishments where rows of...

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Silicone Texture by Lucy Simpson | The Cutting Class.
02 Feb 2015
Silicone Texture by Lucy Simpson

Lucy Simpson, 2014.Some designers start with their end product in mind, and experiment endlessly until they can turn their mental images into a physical form that exactly replicates their original idea. Other designers start from a point of experimentation and allow the happy accidents that occur along the way to...

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Bust Shaping Considerations at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, PF15, Paris.
28 Jan 2015
Bust Shaping Considerations at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, PF15, Paris. Sometimes a design that is very simple on paper can throw some surprisingly tricky pattern considerations at you. There was one particularly simple dress from the Balenciaga pre-collection that illustrates a possible solution to an important question: When you move a seam line away from an apex...

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Fastening Details at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, PF15, Paris.
26 Jan 2015
Fastening Details at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, PF15, Paris. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 pre-collection at Balenciaga, many of the designs seemed to be engineered around the fastening details, with patterns cut in proportion to giant buttons and snap fastenings doubling up as embellishment.

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Pixelated Faces Play with Scale at KTZ | The Cutting Class. KTZ (Kokon To Zai), Menswear, AW15, London.
20 Jan 2015
Pixelated Faces Play with Scale at KTZ

KTZ (Kokon To Zai), Menswear, AW15, London. “Scale”, as a principle of design, can provide designers with a never ending treasure trove of options when it is used to iterate a single idea into a myriad of different variations. For the KTZ men’s collection for Autumn-Winter 2015, the experiments with...

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Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL | The Cutting Class. NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14.
13 Jan 2015
Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL

NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14. In his graduate collection for Spring-Summer 2014, artist and designer Neil Grotzinger created textiles that had an unconstrained and spontaneous quality with placement prints that appeared to be dripping with paint and beaded lines creeping across dresses like iron filings on a magnet.

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