Painterly Velvet at Erdem

Painterly Velvet at Erdem

Erdem, AW11, London.

For his Autumn-Winter 2011 collection, Erdem Moraglioglu moved his signature florals into more dappled territory with digital prints on what appears to be silks and velvets, layered with jewel toned embroidery. The use of velvet was particularly complementary to the print designs and was especially successful when used in combination with other textures.

When velvet was panelled in with other fabrics and overlaid with embroidery it gave the garments a more dynamic edge than some of the florals used in previous collections. The combinations serve to catch the light in unusual ways, resulting in a very painterly 2D / 3D effect.

Though I have read that Erdem was inspired by Jackson Pollock for this collection I find the prints very reminiscent of painings by Monet, with more saturated, high-voltage colours. The overall effect is that the fabrics and prints used here continue to build on the romanticism of Erdem’s label but with an added sense of depth and texture.

Though the shapes are simple, it is the ideas and techniques that are building within the garments and textiles that are at the heart of these carefully considered collections. And this will be the reason to always zoom in on the details for Erdem’s future work as the full story is not always apparent in the head-to-toe catwalk shots.

Catwalk images fromĀ»

Recent Articles

Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture | The Cutting Class. Panelled dress with oversized sleeves from the SS20 Haute Couture collection.
26 Mar 2020
Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture
Guo Pei, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There are times where we want fashion to be a slightly elevated version of the everyday, and then there are times where you just...
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe | The Cutting Class. Detail of gathered fabric and ceramic plate by artist Takuro Kuwata from the AW20 collection.
13 Mar 2020
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe
Loewe, AW20, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, featured fabric that had been draped and gathered around central ceramic disks or bold matte black central panels....
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake | The Cutting Class. AW20 Multi-coloured connected knits.
08 Mar 2020
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake, AW20, Paris. The Issey Miyake Autumn-Winter 2020 collection led by designer Satoshi Kondo, was made up of a series of smaller stories. These stories explored the "words and...