Erdem, AW11, London.
For his Autumn-Winter 2011 collection, Erdem Moraglioglu moved his signature florals into more dappled territory with digital prints on what appears to be silks and velvets, layered with jewel toned embroidery. The use of velvet was particularly complementary to the print designs and was especially successful when used in combination with other textures.
When velvet was panelled in with other fabrics and overlaid with embroidery it gave the garments a more dynamic edge than some of the florals used in previous collections. The combinations serve to catch the light in unusual ways, resulting in a very painterly 2D / 3D effect.
Though I have read that Erdem was inspired by Jackson Pollock for this collection I find the prints very reminiscent of painings by Monet, with more saturated, high-voltage colours. The overall effect is that the fabrics and prints used here continue to build on the romanticism of Erdem’s label but with an added sense of depth and texture.
Though the shapes are simple, it is the ideas and techniques that are building within the garments and textiles that are at the heart of these carefully considered collections. And this will be the reason to always zoom in on the details for Erdem’s future work as the full story is not always apparent in the head-to-toe catwalk shots.
Catwalk images from Vogue.co.uk»