Panels, Pleats and Florals at Celine

Panels, Pleats and Florals at Celine

Céline, RST12, Paris.

Phoebe Philo’s Resort 2012 collection for Céline has proved to be a nice extension of some of the ideas that she presented in the Autumn-Winter 2011 collection. The rounded leather shapes, reminiscent of automotive upholstery, are remixed with brighter colours, while the multiple panels used in AW11 are given a new dynamic with the addition of diagonal lines and the addition of sheer fabric panels.

The use of sheer fabrics is much more prevalent in the Resort collection, from sheer blouses, dresses and skirts through to trench’s made from a smoky, translucent material. There are also a variety of pleats used in the collection that bring in a more traditional reference point, and the florals also add a lighter more organic element to the collection. Interestingly, overblown florals on a dark ground were a sophisticated fabric choice in the 1940s, but there is no nostalgia about the way the fabric is used here. These are suitably contemporary clothes, often presented in an almost bell shaped, bottom heavy silhouette. The pieces look more like the contents of a wardrobe than a strictly disciplined collection, but I say this as an advantage, as this definitely adds to the variety of ways that the garments can be layered without the looks appearing too repetitive.

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