Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris.

Kenzo, AW15, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Kenzo included some interesting pattern cutting details to create draped details and subtle folds of fullness. At times, sportswear colours and satin fabrications were contrasted with a more historical technique, with cartridge pleats used on sleeve heads and dropped waists.

From a design line perspective, there were some nice uses of asymmetry to guide the viewer’s eyes around the garments. At times, angular diagonal panels cut across the sleeve and body pieces of tailored jackets, pierced with contrast strips of colours that bordered on neon. In some tops, curved panels arced across the shoulder area before sweeping into draped fullness around the waist.

There was also some interesting pattern cutting going on in the folds of come of the shirts and coats. There appeared to be extra fullness cut into some shirts and jackets around the neckline / collar area. This fullness appeared to be folded out at the top so that the pleat of fabric draped at a diagonal and blended to nothing at the waist. When used on both sides of the neckline, this created a triangular silhouette which flowed out from the top button of some looks and continued down into layers of fabric volume with staggered hems.

The use of contrast also played an important role in this collection, especially in looks that were so layered and patterned. Contrast facings, or possibly self-backed fabrics, helped to create definition on garments that used draped collars so that pools of black satin broke up detailed prints.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 1. Shaped patch pockets with angled opening.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 2. Asymmetric use of design lines with panel sweeping to the side.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 3. Contrast details highlight pockets.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 4. Sweeping contrast panels.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 5. Cartridge pleats on shoulders.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 6. Layers cut to create fringing.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 7. Pattern cut so fabric folds over lapel.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 8.Piped pockets surrounded by contrast panel.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 9. Angular collar with extended collar stand.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 10. Draped collar section faced with satin backing.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 11. Draped collar section faced with satin backing.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 12. Cartridge pleating on shoulders.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 13.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 14. Sweeping contrast panels.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 15. Sweeping asymmetric panels into draped volume at waist.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 16. Fringed details appear to be added as part of embroidery.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 17. Angular collar, pleat of fullness blends to nothing at the waist.

Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW15, Paris, Image 18. Cartridge pleating.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

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