Raglan Sleeves at Richard Nicoll

Raglan Sleeves at Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll, AW11, London.

When a collection gets referred to as sporty it can be often be due to the fabrics, or the detailing such as the use of sporty closures, velcro, double ended zips etc. In the case of the recent Richard Nicoll collection the sporty edge was achieved without the sacrifice of elegance through the adjustment of the seams on the sleeves.

Raglan sleeves are often used in sportswear from sporty jackets through to baseball style t-shirts. They can be spotted by the seamline that runs diagonally from the bottom of the armhole up towards the centre of the neckline. In contrast, a standard set in sleeve is generally a squarer look where the seamline runs up around the shoulder and back down into the armhole on the other side.

By using raglan sleeves instead of standard set in sleeves Nicoll managed to subconsciously remind us of sporty bomber jackets while also enjoying the benefits of a streamlined, curved shoulder since the shape of the raglan sleeves allows the fabric to fall closer to the natural shape of the shoulder curve.

The raglan shape is often teamed with a dropped under arm shape such as a batwing silhouette to allow for movement, especially in fabrics without stretch. 

In the pictures below it has been highlighted where there has been an additional seam added along the outside edge of the arm, or where the same shape has been achieved by using a dart. Because sheer fabrics have been used in this collections both the seams and the darts would have been french seamed to ensure they look neat from the outside.

When you look through the full collection you will also see that Nicoll has echoed the shape of the raglan by using halter neck styles and other diagonal front seam lines to continue the sportswear theme into all the pieces. This is also the reason why the few standard set in sleeves in the collection seem to jump out due to their squarer shape.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen | The Cutting Class. Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture.
22 Jan 2020
Contemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There is a certain romanticised view of what haute couture entails - hard-working ateliers full of petite mains, painstakingly cutting every last snip...
Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams | The Cutting Class. AW20 Menswear collection by sustainable designer Bethany Williams.
14 Jan 2020
Textile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams
Bethany Williams, AW20, Menswear, London. While some designers and brands attempt to add a sustainable component to an existing fashion business, Bethany Williams has been steadily working on building a...
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Broad shouldered 'Zionic' jacket.
12 Dec 2019
Rick Owens Jacket Details
Rick Owens Jacket Details on 'Zionic' jacket from AW19. In another article focusing on a garment that has made it through from catwalk to retail», this time the focus is...