Lanvin, AW11, Paris.
Sometimes when people buy tailored garments they are unsure about whether or not they are meant to remove what are know as tailors tacks (large loose stitching) so the following image will examine why those stitches are there, so that you know what to look out for. Or for those designing garments, this will just serve as a reminder of a nice finishing touch to add to your garments.
Hermès, AW11, Paris.
Céline, AW11, Paris.
These are the situations you are most likely to come across removable stitches:
- A large “X” stitch at a back vent of a tailored jacket or skirt.
- A line of crossed stitches in the opening of a pocket.
- A line of large stitching across the shoulder seam of a jacket.
In all 3 of these situations the stitches are meant to be removed by the new owner. They are primarily in place to keep the garment in shape, and they can also be an aid when the garment is being pressed. As soon as you remove the tacks from a pocket and people start putting their hands in and out of them you are invariably going to begin to stretch the fabric. With back vents, the vent will also hang nicer for the new owner if it has been kept closed while anyone else tried the jacket on.
These stitches also have another purpose – they serve as a gentle reminder that you are receiving a piece that has been carefully tailored by someone for you. It’s that last little step of the process that you can do yourself that makes it ready for you to wear.
So if you see any large loose stitching which does not seem to be structurally important to the garment then you should take it out. Especially if it is in a contrast colour. They should normally be large enough to snip with a normal pair of scissors and most of the thread should pull out easily.
Catwalk images from Vogue.co.uk»