Rick Owens Jacket Details

Rick Owens Jacket Details

Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Broad shouldered 'Zionic' jacket.
Rick Owens Jacket Details on ‘Zionic’ jacket from AW19.

In another article focusing on a garment that has made it through from catwalk to retail», this time the focus is on the Zionic jacket from Rick Owens’ Autumn-Winter 2019 collection. What is most striking about this jacket, particularly when first seen in the black wool version, is the bold shoulder which defines the silhouette.

It becomes easier to dissect how the sleeve and shoulder area is crafted by looking at the same jacket in the Cardinal Red colourway. The first point to notice is that the whole junction of where the sleeve meets the jacket body is moved inwards. This has a huge effect on the shaping on the sleeve pattern, as it requires the sleeve head to be cut out wider and fuller to allow more fabric to reach across the front and back of the body.

This is facilitated by moving away from a standard set-in sleeve pattern shape, instead, the sleeve looks to be cut in three pieces. Two pieces form the top of the sleeve from the elbow up. By having two separate pieces in this area, the sleeve can be cut so that the seam that runs down the outside of the arm can be manipulated as needed. In the case of this particular silhouette, this outside seam allows for the curve of the fabric up from the bicep and over the shoulder.

The lower part of the seam from the elbow down appears to be cut from one piece, with the seam running down the back of the arm into the sleeve slit that forms the cuff. Effectively, rather than splitting the sleeve into a classic two-piece set-in sleeve through long vertical lines, the sleeve is split into upper and lower halves instead along a horizontal axis, with the vertical lines used to control the shaping where needed.

Other details of note on the jacket include the welt pockets at the front that are created as a double-tiered effect and what appears to be working keyhole buttonholes on the cuffs (rather than a fake closure).

The jacket is shaped through the front body using a bust dart that splices in under the line of the collar. This dart placement has the effect of being able to take into account any dart shaping needed for the bust area, as well as providing shaping needed for the collar at the same time. In cases where this design was sized up for bigger sizes, and especially for larger bust ratios, the basic form of this dart may need to be maintained to avoid messing with the collar, with additional dart value and shaping provided by a second bust dart. This could possibly be placed so that it ran down in line with seaming already in place for the welt pocket detail. Or as a bust dart that runs directly down from bust point to the centre of the welt pocket area – similar to how you would see a dart running into a pocket on a classic tailored jacket.

Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Zionic jacket shown in black features wide curved shoulders.
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Jacket is cut so that sleeve head is wider allowing more fabric to come across into the body.
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Jacket sleeve is also shaped using a seam along the outside edge.
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Tapered jacket opening on Zionic jacket in Cardinal Red.
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Black jacket with double layered welt pockets.
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Bust dart helps control front shaping and collar. Horizonal seamline is used to control shaping of sleeve.
Rick Owens Jacket Details AW19 | The Cutting Class. Jacket back details include back slit and working keyhole buttons on cuff.
Rick Owens Zionic Jacket in Black, AW19.
Rick Owens Zionic Jacket in Cardinal Red, AW19.
Images of Zionic Jacket from Autumn-Winter 2019 from RickOwens.com»
Zionic Jacket, Rick Owens, AW19, Black, Wool version on RickOwens.com»
Zionic Jacket, Rick Owens, AW19, Cardinal Red, Cotton/Silk version on RickOwens.com»

Blog Comments

Hi! Do you think the body of the fabric is enough to hold the shape, or is the structure held in some other way? via canvassing, underlining etc.

My guess would be the fabric is either block fused with a fairly hefty interfacing, or backed onto canvas, but interfacing would likely be easier for production. And then I imagine this would all be supported by a custom-shaped shoulder pad to support the silhouette.

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