Proenza Schouler, AW14, New York.
Viewing catwalk collections digitally can be restrictive when it comes to collections which are highly patterned, as the colours and patterns can obscure the panels and darts used within the garments. This was true for the Proenza Schouler collection for Autumn-Winter 2014, which provided a good case for separating the silhouettes from the fabrics.
The following images have separated out the shapes of the garments as simple line drawings so that you can better see where panel lines, darts and tucks seem to have been placed. This makes it easier to see how the cocoon shapes and patchworked panels have been pieced together using sweeping panel lines that often blend together pattern pieces between the sleeves and the body panels.
These line drawings are complemented by the fabric swatches at the side, which also serves to highlight the variety of fabrics in the collection.
In a way, when you are designing yourself you are usually starting with a line drawing and a pile of fabric swatches, trying to imagine how the whole collection will come together. By viewing the Proenza Schouler collection in this way it helps to highlight how both the silhouette and the fabric choices need to come together to create a successful collection, and how the cut of the garments needs to be considered in conjunction with the fabric choices so that they support each other.
Images from Vogue.co.uk»