Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris.

Undercover, AW15, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Undercover was filled with sharp construction details and shattered design lines which were rounded out by rich colours, painted fabrics and voluminous drapes of velvet, satin and jersey. Soft and luxurious fabrics were often layered, deconstructed and then rejoined to create spliced details and staggered panel lines.

Darts were often sewn so that the dart value was visible on the outside of the garment, creating pointed wedges of fabric that spliced through the garment at different angles. The pattern pieces that used these darts were carefully balanced so that a symmetrical garment was shaped using an asymmetrical combination of darts and panel lines. For example, on some of the coats there may be a dart on one side of the body, but the same fit value was created on the other side of the body using panels instead. Or at times the dart was removed altogether and the same fit value may have been rotated into an adjacent panel.

Some of the looks that appeared to just be styled as a “layered look” were in fact carefully constructed so that sections of shirts joined straight into the waistband of trousers, or shirt cuffs were joined directly onto blazers. On one garment, an open-ended zipper slices straight through the centre of both a shirt and a cardigan. The visual impact of this deconstruction was particularly striking on monochrome looks that played with the black and white layering of traditional formal attire, which appears to have been created with garment sections first joined horizontally, and then spliced vertically to create jagged mismatched edges.

The use of angular darts and shattered panel lines mimicked the jagged shards of glass that adorned the coats and tailored pieces that closed the collection.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 1. Knitwear spliced with sheer panel.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 2. Darts splice down and across coat.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 3. Collection styled with bizarre plastic masks.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 4. Sheer fabrics layered over denim.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 5. Knife print or embroidery.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 6. Double layered rib collar.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 7. Tucks into neckline and hem help to create shaping.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 8. Similar shape but with gathering and more volume.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 9. Painted bodice shaped with princess panel lines.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 10. Raglan sleeve variation.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 11. Draped layers of jersey and satin.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 12. Velvet draped into front of coat.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 13. Layered look deconstructed and merged into one garment.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 14. Shirt appears to join trousers and shirt cuffs attached straight onto blazer.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 15. Open ended zip closure.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 16. Panels appear to curve down to create jagged edge.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 17. Jacket and trousers appear to be joined and spliced together with panels.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 18.Tailoring covered with shards of glass.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 19. Tailoring covered with shards of glass.

Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover | The Cutting Class. Undercover, AW15, Paris, Image 20. Darts splicing through garments mimic the shards of glass.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

The Christian Dior Toile Room | The Cutting Class. Images of toiles from the 2019 V&A exhibition paired with their catwalk versions.
05 Nov 2019
The Christian Dior Toile Room
Toile of garment, Christian Dior by John Galliano, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2007. One of the most amazing rooms in the V&A Exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was the toile...
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class.
29 Oct 2019
Zip Details from Prada AW1999
Prada, AW1999. Sometimes you see an image pop up and even though it's from a collection that's 20 years old, you feel like the garment could just as easily have...
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga tailoring AW19, Fluo Yellow Car Coat.
22 Oct 2019
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga, AW19. Sometimes it seems like a bit of a shame that there was so much hype surrounding the work of Demna Gvasalia at Vetements and Balenciaga....