Sies Marjan Jacket Details

Sies Marjan Jacket Details

Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Detail of Haru Twill Waisted Jacket from AW19.
Sies Marjan Jacket Details, AW19.

There were some interesting details on a style called the ‘Haru Twill Waisted Jacket’ from the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection from Sies Marjan. The jacket has a softly shaped feel, due to the gently nipped waist and the slight arc to the sleeves. The twill fabric used is also encouraging the design to fall into softly rounded folds, rather than crisp creases.

The topstitching on most of the garment is done to match the ‘Fluo Yellow’ coloured fabric. However, accents of contrast colour are used on the single front button closure and the matching sleeve vent buttons. The buttons and buttonholes have been finished with thread colours to match the buttons, and this contrast is carried through to the topstitching on tucks at the jacket’s waist.

The slightly curved sleeve is shaped by the seam running along the outside edge of the sleeve. When viewed from the back you can see that the back sleeve is actually cut all in one as part of the back pattern piece. The back of the jacket is also shaped at the waist, this time using a centre back (CB) seam and back darts.

Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Jacket silhouette with tucks at waist and gently curved sleeve.
Detail of Sies Marjan Jacket from AW19. Featuring contrast stitching on tucks, button and buttonhole.Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Curved sleeve shaped by outside seam.

At the front of the jacket, you can see that this is an example of a single-breasted jacket which has been cut square at the front corners. This was a detail discussed recently in the article ‘Tailored Jacket Hems – Straight or Curved?’». At the back of the jacket you can see that the hem is full and dips into points at either side.

If you’ve even learnt how to sew mitred corners and wondered where you would use them, then this hem allowance is likely finished with mitred corners on the inside hem allowance. There aren’t images of how this jacket is finished on the inside, but the Sies Marjan website describes this as an unlined jacket with a “contrast bias piping detail” on the inside.

Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Sleeve cut all in one with back body pattern. Back shaped with CB seam and darts.
Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Haru Twill Waisted Jacket with shaped back hem with mitred corner on hem allowance.
Sies Marjan Jacket Details | The Cutting Class. Haru Twill Waisted Jacket from Autumn-Winter 2019.

Images of Haru Twill Waisted Jacket from SiesMarjan.com»
See all images from the Sies Marjan Autumn-Winter 2019 collection on SiesMarjan.com»

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Blog Comments

Thanks for writing this article. It was very informative.
This is an amazing jacket!!! I love the shape and details. Is there a pattern you would recommend as a jumping off point to achieve something like this?

thanks!
Morna

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