Sies Marjan Jacket Details, AW19.
There were some interesting details on a style called the ‘Haru Twill Waisted Jacket’ from the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection from Sies Marjan. The jacket has a softly shaped feel, due to the gently nipped waist and the slight arc to the sleeves. The twill fabric used is also encouraging the design to fall into softly rounded folds, rather than crisp creases.
The topstitching on most of the garment is done to match the ‘Fluo Yellow’ coloured fabric. However, accents of contrast colour are used on the single front button closure and the matching sleeve vent buttons. The buttons and buttonholes have been finished with thread colours to match the buttons, and this contrast is carried through to the topstitching on tucks at the jacket’s waist.
The slightly curved sleeve is shaped by the seam running along the outside edge of the sleeve. When viewed from the back you can see that the back sleeve is actually cut all in one as part of the back pattern piece. The back of the jacket is also shaped at the waist, this time using a centre back (CB) seam and back darts.
At the front of the jacket, you can see that this is an example of a single-breasted jacket which has been cut square at the front corners. This was a detail discussed recently in the article ‘Tailored Jacket Hems – Straight or Curved?’». At the back of the jacket you can see that the hem is full and dips into points at either side.
If you’ve even learnt how to sew mitred corners and wondered where you would use them, then this hem allowance is likely finished with mitred corners on the inside hem allowance. There aren’t images of how this jacket is finished on the inside, but the Sies Marjan website describes this as an unlined jacket with a “contrast bias piping detail” on the inside.