Helmut Lang, SS14, New York.

With some of the simpler and more minimal catwalk collections it is worth spending the time to drill down on the elements at play, and move beyond just “I like it because it’s so simple” to “It works because they’ve refined this particular detail”. The Helmut Lang collection for Spring-Summer 2014 was filled with simple details that take time and consideration to refine and execute correctly.

One of the recurring details in the collection was the use of the reverse side of the garment to reveal a contrast colour. At times this was light colours backed with a soft peach, or black backed with bright white. This is a design detail that can be achieved either through the use of contrast coloured facings and linings, or it can be achieved using bonded fabric.

At times bonded fabric appears to have been used in the Helmut Lang collection, particularly in tailored jackets where the contrast is folded back like a lapel. The use of bonded fabric allows for the edges of the garment to be cut raw rather than needing to be finished in a traditional way.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»