Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris.

noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris.

It comes as no surprise that someone who used to be a pattern cutter at Comme des Garçons would produce intricately designed garments, however, based on the collection shown for Autumn-Winter 2015, it is also clear that Kei Ninomiya has a particular flair for ingenious modular patterns and contemporary updates of smocking and macramé.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 1. Different individual units repeated to create intricate designs.

Much of the collection appeared to be centred around the idea of repetition, with cleverly formed shapes acting as individual units that were repeated out to cover the whole body. Each of these units was created using different techniques with sections of fabric folded, looped, tucked and puffed to create unusual shapes like small pillows or floral motifs.

At times, it appeared as though padded fabric tubes of different thicknesses were looped and knotted using techniques similar to macramé in order to form complex patterns on vests and dresses. In another garment, fabric blended out of the folds of accordion pleats and into wavy patterns created through smocking. These smocked sections of fabric appear to be held in place with small metal rivets rather than stitching, and on close inspection it appears as though the fabric has been sliced along the fold to create fabric strips for smocking and perhaps also to aid in fitting the garment to the body of the wearer through the bust area.

The metal rivets also appeared on other garments, and at one point they were used to create circular patterns across a quilted cape. A relatively simple duffle coat was also embellished with hardware and tiny eyelets and small metal rings were carefully spaced to form borders around toggles and patch pockets.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 2. Modules create different patterns on right and wrong sides of fabric.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 3. Triangular modules are sued to cleverly shape rows of cubes.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 4. Small pillow modules radiate around rivets.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 5. Tucks open up to create skirt fullness.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 6. Appears to be tubes of padded fabric in varying thicknesses.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 7.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 8. Macramé examples from Complete Guide to the Work-Table via Internet Archive. Complex rows appeared to be created with macramé techniques.

Macramé examples from Complete Guide to the Work-Table» via Internet Archive.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 9. Modules created to make flower shapes.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 10. Fabric appears to be spliced out of accordion pleats and smocked with rivets.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 11. Appliquéd loops appear to mimic knitting patterns.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 12. Floral patterns created on dress.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 13. Appears to be ribbon or tape woven through knitwear.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 14. Eyelets and rings are used around toggle closures and pockets.

Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya | The Cutting Class. noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris, Image 15. Rivets used to create circular patterns.

Images from Style.com»

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