Sneaker References at Alexander Wang

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York.

Alexander Wang, SS15, New York.

Some of the best designers can get amazing mileage out of even the simplest of references. For the Spring-Summer 2015 collection at Alexander Wang all of the innovation pivoted around sneakers. Aside from the more literal sneaker references, which included trainers morphed into handbags or shoe lace plackets, the collection included well cut tailoring, layered panelling and perforated fabric with pleating that would make Madame Grès proud.

Much of the collection had clear links to the fabrics and materials that are used to make sneakers, with a moulded dress resembling the soles of shoes, or a top with a crackled print picking up on the crackled leather effect sometimes used on sneakers. In the same way that sneakers tend to combine an array of different materials into the one design, many of the clothes in the collection also used organically shaped panels to layer and contrast materials for different effects. A notable example was the use of different leathers, or possibly vinyls, that were topstitched together to create bodices like armour. In one case this also included strips of patent leather that appeared to be topstitched onto a matt backing leather to create a ribbed effect.

Fabrics that we associate with sportswear in general were also used, with garments panelled with mesh and perforated fabrics in varying size scales. The perforated look of these fabrics was also carried through into carefully panelled knitwear that followed the lines of the body. The use of different size scales was perhaps most apparent in the section of white garments that played on the white and green used for tennis shoes where there was an interplay between air holes and eyelets, and fully-fashioned knitwear was layered with aerated leather.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 1. Handbags are created to look like morphed sneakers.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 2. Handbags are created to look like morphed sneakers.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 3. Bright plastic edge trim used for belt.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 4. Different sizes of perforated white fabric.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 5. Plastic trim similar to shoelace eyelets.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 6. Knitwear traced the body like engineered sportswear.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 7. Zip cuffs edged with decorative loop details.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 8. Knitwear appears to woven with thick weft yarn or material.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 9. Long evening dress shapes with curved mesh panels.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 10. Seam allowance needs to be especially smooth and consistent on white garments.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 11. Perforated fabric has been pleated.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 12. Collars would usually be knitted separately and attached.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 13. Dress has been moulded like the sole of a sneaker.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 14. Print effect looks like crackled sneaker leather.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 15. Curved panels with different leather or vinyl textures.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 16. Tennis shoe colourways in white and green.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 17. Mixture of white on white knitwear and leather.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 18. Armhole seam neatened with strip of leather. Zip is edged with decorative eyelets.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 19. Strips topstitched onto base fabric.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 20. Appears to be strips of patent leather topstitched onto base fabric.

The way that the collection avoided looking too casual was in the silhouettes. Many of the garments were pared with high waisted, tailored trousers with the occasional appearance of cropped tuxedo jacket or an evening dress silhouette. The use of bright colours was also often pared back with black and impeccably finished; there was none of the overlocking or contrast coverstitching that you may see used in everyday sportswear.

One last fabric detail to note was the use of perforated fabric, which was pleated and draped in a very couture fashion to create sculpted dresses. Even raglan sleeve sportswear jackets that appeared to be panelled with a gradient print that looked like an 80s tracksuit throwback were actually also panelled with intricately pleated fabric.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 21.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 22.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 23.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 24.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 25.

Sneaker References at Alexander Wang | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, SS15, New York, Image 26.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture | The Cutting Class. Panelled dress with oversized sleeves from the SS20 Haute Couture collection.
26 Mar 2020
Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture
Guo Pei, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There are times where we want fashion to be a slightly elevated version of the everyday, and then there are times where you just...
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe | The Cutting Class. Detail of gathered fabric and ceramic plate by artist Takuro Kuwata from the AW20 collection.
13 Mar 2020
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe
Loewe, AW20, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, featured fabric that had been draped and gathered around central ceramic disks or bold matte black central panels....
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake | The Cutting Class. AW20 Multi-coloured connected knits.
08 Mar 2020
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake, AW20, Paris. The Issey Miyake Autumn-Winter 2020 collection led by designer Satoshi Kondo, was made up of a series of smaller stories. These stories explored the "words and...