
Balenciaga, RST16.
The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection at Balenciaga was filled with stripes, splits, sheer panels and details that created soft structure. At times, waistline tucks blended into wavy peplum hems that appeared as though they may have been shaped with crinoline. This same soft, wavy structure was also used around hip level to create bouncy structure in dresses.
Often channels filled with boning are used to create structure through the bodice sections of dresses, and this was what appeared to be visible in a couple of strapless dresses in the collection. This same channelled look was also used on other garments but in the garments that appeared to be made out of stretch fabrics, the support appeared to be much softer and more flexible to move with the body. This channelled appearance was also created on some garments in a more decorative way, with box-shaped topstitching.
From a pattern cutting perspective, one unusual detail in the collection was the way panel lines on a couple of garments split through the bodice with the different lengths of the panels used to create small draped sections that tucked in at the waistline. Small, dart-shaped tucks were also used in an interesting way to create shaping around the curved necklines of some garments.
Images from Vogue.co.ukĀ»