Spongy Synthetics at Prada

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan.

Prada, AW15, Milan.

For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Miuccia Prada played with cartoonish silhouettes in a spongy synthetic, which looked like a neoprene material but was actually a double-faced jersey. This material appeared to be the pivot point for experiments with how we construct “beauty”, whether by natural or artificial means. The result of this natural / artificial contrast appeared to be referenced through rounded tailoring in fleshy textures that played against the cool blues, greens and vivid aquas that appeared in blobby molecular prints.

A new and thicker fabric brings new capabilities and new limitations. The double-faced jersey created collars and sleeve heads that appeared fuller, smoother and more rounded. If normal wool-based tailoring can suffer from unsightly cellulite, then this was the material equivalent of botox. Where sharper edges were needed, wide borders of topstitching controlled the seam allowances to create more controlled lines on collars, lapels, facings and patch pockets.

This material was also used in conjunction with more traditional embellishment techniques such as beading and embroidery. In some cases, the thick jersey was used to create 3D flowers and appliquéd designs. At times, wide panels of contrasting colours were panelled onto babydoll dresses with what appears to be a zigzag stitch, or may be a handsewn catch stitch.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 1. Wide border of topstitching with heavy thread.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 2.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 3. Topstitching around front edge to hold facing.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 4. Wide collar sits over the top of coat top collar.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 5. Furry contrast front panels.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 6. Furry panels cut to avoid front overlap and pockets.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 7. Appears to be appliqué with beading and embroidery.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 8. Beads appear to slide down vertical threads.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 9. Fabrics appears to be blobby version of a classic herringbone.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 10. Fabric appears to be blobby version of a houndstooth tartan.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 11. Appliquéd panels attached with zigzag stitch.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 12. Embellishment and appliqué.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 13. Pixelated blob effect on print.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 14. Pattern matched across patch pockets.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 15.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 16.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 17. Layered bow effect on shoulders.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 18. Small back embellishment.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 19. Double-faced jersey used to create 3D embellishments.

Spongy Synthetics at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW15, Milan, Image 20. Smooth shoulder head curve.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

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