Spotlight Details at Anrealage

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15.

Anrealage, AW15, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Anrealage revolved around the way that a spot of light hits objects in darkness, with pitch black garments illuminated by spots of pure white. This basic concept was then borne out through a range of different iterations – white light as a print, prints fading into darkness, circles to create focus on a garment, different ways to create gradient effects, rounded silhouettes and even prints illuminated by UV lighting.

The catwalk presentation was vital to the concept of this collection, with the video of the show essentially broken into two parts. In the first section, the “light” is physically present on the garments with white or lightened focal points, often created with screen prints or possibly faded digital prints. At times, the gradient effect around the ring of light was also meticulously created through patchwork, felting, or with knit pieces that appeared to be created from greyscale wool in a range of tones.

The idea of circles and curves was also physically cut into the garments at the pattern stage. Sleeves were cut with dropped shoulders and shaped with rounded seams while skirts were cut from circle skirt shapes to create flowing, uneven hems.

The physical light spots in this section were highlighted during the catwalk show by the way that the models walked in and out of white spotlights. This added further brightness to the spots that were already physically there on the clothes.

In the second half of the collection, the textiles themselves changed so that they were actually black unless they were highlighted with UV lights. This effect emphasised the idea of a flashlight discovering objects in the dark, with the UV follow-spots roaming over the clothes so that the prints appeared to become activated when lit. While the styling of the collection in photographs appears very sombre, the roaming lighting and soundtrack in this second section has a more playful quality as though the light is exploring the garments and discovering the vibrant colour hidden inside the gloom.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 1. Rounded silhouette echoes spotlight print.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 2. Lapel is cut to disappear into front piece.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 3. Appears to be digitally printed to create faded effect.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 4. Interesting use of panels and gathering to create shape.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 5. Upper sleeve cut in one piece with jacket front.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 6. In Knitwear gradient appears to be created with varying tints of wool.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 7. Black and white appears to be felted together.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 8. Gradient created through patchwork.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 9. Possibly a scratchy black print on a white base fabric.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 10. Skirts used in collection seem to be based on circle skirts.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 11. Appears to be created with black texture added to white base fabric.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 12. Appears to be special print picked up in UV lighting.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 13. See how fabric appears to be black when not in UV light.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 14.

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 15. Finale highlights how fabric appears black without spotlight...

Spotlight Details at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW15, Image 16. Colour becomes visible when highlighted with UV light.

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

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