Structured Tailoring and Ornate Textiles at Kenzo

Structured Tailoring and Ornate Textiles at Kenzo

image

Kenzo, AW13, Paris.

Cleverly crafted tailoring details were nearly obscured by the ornate prints and embellished textiles that were used in the recent Kenzo collection for Autumn-Winter 2013. The collection by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon also experimented with layered looks of nearly identical textiles that made the most of a rich yet muted colourway laced with metallics.

In terms of tailoring details, the use of specially shaped seams to create lapel lines within jacket fronts was especially effective, as they were used to create subtle shaping changes within the detailed fabrics. This also allowed the additional layering of contrast fabrics and textures in some of the garments.

The general cut of the garments throughout the collection also created a gentle blend of cultural references. One such element that exposed  the mixture of shapes on a pattern making level was the stark contrasts in armholes shapes across the collection. By way of example, some of the tailored garments were cut high and tight under the arm, as opposed to the shirts that were cut with large square sleeves set into deep armholes reminiscent of kimono or dolman shapes.

There was a nice theme of matching and yet not matching textiles, that played nicely into the wearability of the collection with similar fabrics layered together or sometimes used twice in the one look but altered for the second garment. This could be seen through the appliquéd top halves of some looks/garments that were echoed in the textiles used for the matching bottom half of the same look.

imageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimage

Images from Vogue.co.uk»

Recent Articles

Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture | The Cutting Class. Panelled dress with oversized sleeves from the SS20 Haute Couture collection.
26 Mar 2020
Reverse Textiles at Guo Pei Haute Couture
Guo Pei, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There are times where we want fashion to be a slightly elevated version of the everyday, and then there are times where you just...
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe | The Cutting Class. Detail of gathered fabric and ceramic plate by artist Takuro Kuwata from the AW20 collection.
13 Mar 2020
Gathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe
Loewe, AW20, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, featured fabric that had been draped and gathered around central ceramic disks or bold matte black central panels....
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake | The Cutting Class. AW20 Multi-coloured connected knits.
08 Mar 2020
Connected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake, AW20, Paris. The Issey Miyake Autumn-Winter 2020 collection led by designer Satoshi Kondo, was made up of a series of smaller stories. These stories explored the "words and...