Kenzo, AW13, Paris.
Cleverly crafted tailoring details were nearly obscured by the ornate prints and embellished textiles that were used in the recent Kenzo collection for Autumn-Winter 2013. The collection by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon also experimented with layered looks of nearly identical textiles that made the most of a rich yet muted colourway laced with metallics.
In terms of tailoring details, the use of specially shaped seams to create lapel lines within jacket fronts was especially effective, as they were used to create subtle shaping changes within the detailed fabrics. This also allowed the additional layering of contrast fabrics and textures in some of the garments.
The general cut of the garments throughout the collection also created a gentle blend of cultural references. One such element that exposed the mixture of shapes on a pattern making level was the stark contrasts in armholes shapes across the collection. By way of example, some of the tailored garments were cut high and tight under the arm, as opposed to the shirts that were cut with large square sleeves set into deep armholes reminiscent of kimono or dolman shapes.
There was a nice theme of matching and yet not matching textiles, that played nicely into the wearability of the collection with similar fabrics layered together or sometimes used twice in the one look but altered for the second garment. This could be seen through the appliquéd top halves of some looks/garments that were echoed in the textiles used for the matching bottom half of the same look.
Images from Vogue.co.uk»