Yohji Yamamoto, SS14, Paris.
It was an array of disjointed experiments that came together to create the Yohji Yamamoto show for Spring-Summer 2014. Some of the experiments involved careful reworkings of the sleeve head area while other garments played with clashing neon colours.
The sleeve head area is most easily seen on standard shirts and jackets with set in sleeves, and is essentially the curved seam line at the top of the shoulder where the sleeve meets the body of the garment. You can read about sleeve head ease in the post Mademoiselle Coco Setting Sleeves»
In the Yohji Yamamoto collection the sleeve head area became a focus point of the garment to be spliced and reattached using a variety of different techniques including bows, trims and sheer fabric underlays.
At times the sleeves were suspended on the arm without being attached to the body of the garment. It appears that this effect may have been created using elastic in a fabric casing, however the effect also could have been created by gathering the sleeve fabric around a rigid strap.
Experiments with retina blasting colour combinations also featured heavily in the collection, made all the more surprising because Yamamoto is so well know for his black and monochrome colour palette. These vibrant fabrics were sometimes interwoven through slits created in the lapels of garments allowing draped shawls of contrast fabrics to double as loose garment fastenings.
Images from Vogue.co.uk»