Zip Details from Prada AW1999

Zip Details from Prada AW1999

Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class.
Prada, AW1999.

Sometimes you see an image pop up and even though it’s from a collection that’s 20 years old, you feel like the garment could just as easily have been created for a new collection. Such was the case when an image of zip details from Prada AW1999 appeared.

In this collection, the zips have a great linear quality. Sometimes splicing through bulletproof vest style garments to create garments that are made up of stiff plates. Sometimes the zips were tracing down from the top of a collar to the bottom of a sleeve, allowing the garment to open up as temporary slits. And sometimes the zips were also used horizontally and vertically to create accents, wrapping around the waist of one model, or splicing up and down to create pockets.

Sometimes it’s easy to think about zips as just being zips, but of course, you can use various combinations of zipper tape and zipper fixings for different functions. Where the zips are used here on the bulletproof vest style to create the body plates, they would be open-ended zips so that they can be opened up where needed. Similar to the style of zip you would see on a hoodie, where the two halves split away from each other.

The zips that are placed through the centre of panels or used for pockets are more likely to be regular single zips, or double-ended zippers. Double-ended would be similar to what you would expect from a sports bag where you could open the zip from either end.

Also, it’s nice to see how some of these details were echoed in the womenswear collection, even though they were a more backgrounded detail in the context of the collection. In the case, of the vest style, it is given a completely different feel when cut for womenswear given that the front can be opened to reveal a sheer underlayer. Also, the horizontal zip becomes more cinched around the waist, turning the bottom panel into slightly more of a peplum. It’s also likely that the vertical zip lines that run over bust point on the womenswear style, is also where the dart value is hidden, taking in the dart value in the same way that a princess panel line» would work.

Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Horizontal and vertical zippers on khaki vest.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Long zipper on khaki tunic creates slit at hem.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Long zipper outside of sleeve of khaki tunic.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Vertical zipper pockets on black menswear hoodie.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Open-ended zips used on edges to join together plates of vest.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Single or double-ended zips could be used to create pockets.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Zip pocket in elbow patch of hooded menswear jacket.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Horizontal and vertical zips also used on womenswear styles.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Zip pockets have long pull tabs looped to create semi circular shape.
Zip Details from Prada AW1999 | The Cutting Class. Womenswear version of vest reveals sheer underlayer, with bottom panel creating a peplum.

Images of Prada AW1999 Menswear» and Womenswear» from the Prada archive on Prada.com.

Recent Articles

Ruched Dress by Japanese label Houga. Houga, AW19.
19 Nov 2019
Ruching, Pleating, Gathers and Ruffles at Houga
Houga, AW19. Moe Ishida, the designer behind Tokyo-based brand Houga, has a knack for creating laid-back party dresses that are oversized, asymmetrical and spliced through with ruffles, gathers and pleats....
Ladies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Rubberist print dress from Christopher Kane AW19 collection.
14 Nov 2019
Ladies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane, AW19, London. Christopher Kane is a designer who knows how to flesh out a collection in the old school way - taking an idea or theme as a...
The Christian Dior Toile Room | The Cutting Class. Images of toiles from the 2019 V&A exhibition paired with their catwalk versions.
05 Nov 2019
The Christian Dior Toile Room
Toile of garment, Christian Dior by John Galliano, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2007. One of the most amazing rooms in the V&A Exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was the toile...